Impressionism, Fashion, & Modernity (2012)

By: Gloria Groom, ed.

This volume is the first to explore fashion as a critical aspect of modernity, one that paralleled and many times converged with the development of Impressionism, starting in the 1860s and continuing through the next two decades, when fashion attracted the foremost writers and artists of the day. Although they have depicted fashionable subjects throughout history, for many artists and writers, including Charles Baudelaire, Stéphane Mallarmé, Émile Zola, Gustave Caillebotte, Edgar Degas, Édouard Manet, Claude Monet, Berthe Morisot, and Pierre-Auguste Renoir, fashion became integral to the search for new literary and visual expression.

In a series of essays that examine fashion and its social, cultural, and artistic context during some of the most important years of the Impressionist era—years that also gave birth to the modern fashion industry—a group of fifteen scholars, drawn from five interdisciplinary fields, examine approximately 140 Impressionist-era artworks, including those by dedicated fashion portraitists, in light of the rise of the department store, new working methods for designing clothing, and new social and technological changes that led to the democratization of fashion and, simultaneously, its ascendance as a vehicle for modernity.

More Information


Edition 1st ed.
Imprint Chicago : Art Institute of Chicago ; New Haven, Conn. ; London : Distributed by Yale University Press, c2012.
Description 335 p. : ill. (chiefly col.) ; 31 cm.
ISBN 9780300184518


Table of contents

Table of contents

  • Foreword, Guy Cogeval, p. 11
  • Chapter 1 – The Rise and Role of Fashion in French Nineteenth-Century Painting, Gary Tinterow, p. 17
    • Edouard Manet: Young Lady in 1866, Gary Tinterow, p. 26
  • Chapter 2 – The Social Network of Fashion, Gloria Groom, p. 33
    • Claude Monet: Camille, Gloria Groom, p. 44
  • Chapter 3 – Writing Fashion from Balzac to Mallarme, Heidi Brevik-Zender, p. 53
  • Chapter 4 – Who Creates Fashion?, Francoise Tetart-Vittu, p. 63
    • Edouard Manet: The Parisienne, Francoise Tetart-Vittu, p. 78
  • Chapter 5 – Fashion en Plein Air, Birgit Haase, p. 85
    • Claude Monet: Women in the Garden, Birgit Haase, p. 100
  • Chapter 6 – Fashion and Intimate Portraits, Justine De Young, p. 107
    • Edouard Manet: Nana, Valerie Steele, p. 124
  • Chapter 7 – An Ideal of Virile Urbanity, Philippe Thiebaut, p. 135
    • James Tissot: The Circle of the Rue Royale, Stephane Guegan, p. 146
  • Chapter 8 – Looking Through, Across, and Up: The Architectural Aesthetics of the Paris Street, David Van Zanten, p. 153
  • Chapter 9 – Spaces of Modernity, Gloria Groom, p. 165
    • Gustave Caillebotte: Paris Street; Rainy Day, Aileen Ribeiro, p. 186
  • Chapter 10 – Photography, Fashion, and the Cult of Appearances, Elizabeth Anne Mccauley, p. 197
  • Chapter 11 – Shops versus Department Stores, Francoise Tetart-Vittu, p. 209
  • Edgar Degas: The Millinery Shop, Gloria Groom, p. 209
  • Chapter 12 – Fashion and the Press, Justine De Young, p. 233
    • Pierre-Auguste Renoir: Madame Georges Charpentier and Her Children, Sylvie Patry, p. 244
  • Chapter 13 – Changing Silhouettes, Helen Burnham, p. 253
  • Key Dates in Fashion and Commerce, 1851-89, Gloria Groom, p. 270
  • Checklist of the Exhibition, p. 280
  • Appendix I : Fashion Plates, p. 280
  • Appendix II : Cartes de Visite, p. 302
  • Notes, p. 304
  • Selected Bibliography, p. 324
  • Index, p. 330
  • Photography Credits, p. 336

About the author

About the author

Gloria Groom is the David and Mary Winton Green Curator of Nineteenth-Century European Painting and Sculpture at the Art Institute of Chicago.

Student reviews


There are no reviews yet.

Be the first to review “Impressionism, Fashion, & Modernity (2012)”