garment analysis | Fashion History Timeline

1859 – Gold silk day dress with floral brocade

1850-1859, 19th century, garment analysis

While the silhouette of this day dress, its floral brocade, and its use of fringe were fashionable for 1859, its choice of gold silk fabric and naturalistic coloring for the flowers was less so.

1862 – Cream and mint silk day dress

1860-1869, 19th century, garment analysis

This cream patterned dress trimmed with pleated green ribbons was considered a fashionable garment in 1862 with its full crinoline skirt and simple, but deliberate trimmings.

1863 – Blue silk dress with black floral embroidery

1860-1869, 19th century, garment analysis

This 1863 dress has a simple and standard silhouette for the period—buttoned bodice, wide sleeves, full skirt—but is made fashionable by the floral embroidery, sash, and “Mexican blue” color.

1865 – Cream silk taffeta evening dress

1860-1869, 19th century, garment analysis

This charming 1865 cream silk taffeta dress features many design details of fashionable evening looks of the time, like a defined waist and passementerie.

1866 – Silk afternoon dress with a trompe l’oeil bolero jacket

1860-1869, 19th century, garment analysis

This gold-colored silk afternoon dress with its green bows and ruffles that help to emphasize the back of the silhouette was on trend in 1866, but its coordinating trompe l’oeil jacket was very fashion-forward.

1867 – White piqué afternoon dress with black cording

1860-1869, 19th century, garment analysis

In the 1860s, white cotton piqué afternoon dresses like this one with black cording were often recommended for summer walking for their sturdy breathability.

1868 – Green silk day dress

1860-1869, 19th century, garment analysis

This green silk afternoon dress is made fashionable for a woman in 1868 by its vibrant green color, its high neck and bustled skirt silhouette, and its embellishments of bows, trim, and tasseled fringe.

1870 – Green silk day dress with tassel trim

1870-1879, 19th century, garment analysis

This green silk day dress, patterned with an abstracted floral design, displays aspects of style associated with the early 1870s. Its bustle silhouette, vibrant hue, and abundance of trimmings all speak to its fashionability and provide an insight into the trends of the year.

1872 – Mon. Vignon, Silk day dress

1870-1879, 19th century, garment analysis

The early 1870s were characterized by bustles, square necklines, sleeves that flare at the wrist, jacket-style bodices, the appearance of aprons, asymmetry, and flounces, frills, and ruffles. This ca. 1872 silk day dress designed by Mon. Vignon is the perfect example of a fashionable early 1870s garment.