OVERVIEW
Womenswear
Wikipedia writes of womenswear in this period:
“Women’s fashions of the 15th century consisted of a long gown, usually with sleeves, worn over a kirtle or undergown, with a linen chemise or smock worn next to the skin. The sleeves were made detachable and were heavily ornamented. The long-waisted silhouette of the previous period was replaced by a high-waisted style with fullness over the belly, often confined by a belt. The wide, shallow scooped neckline was replaced by a V-neck, often cut low enough to reveal the decorated front of the kirtle beneath.”
Fig. 1 - Unknown Miniaturist (Flemish). Story of Alexander the Great, 1450s. Illumination on parchment; Dimensions unknown. Paris: Bibliothèque Nationale de France. Source: Wikimedia Commons
Menswear
Wikipedia writes of fashion in this period:
“The basic costume of men in this period consisted of a shirt, doublet, and hose, with some sort of overgown (robe worn over clothing).
Linen shirts were worn next to the skin. Toward the end of the period, shirts (French chemise, Italian camicia, Spanish camisa) began to be full through the body and sleeves with wide, low necklines; the sleeves were pulled through the slashings or piecing of the doublet sleeves to make puffs, especially at the elbow and the back of the arm. As the cut of doublets revealed more fabric, wealthy men’s shirts were often decorated with embroidery or applied braid.”
Fig. 1 - Mino da Fiesole (Italian, 1429-1484). Piero di Cosimo de'Medici, 1453. London: Victoria & Albert Museum, REPRO.1899-57. Source: Victoria and Albert Museum
Fig. 2 - Giovanni di Paolo (Italian, 1398-1492). The Blessed Andrea Gallerani, 1447–65. Tempera on wood, gold ground; 48.3 x 12.4 cm (19 x 4 7/8 in). New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1975.1.55. Robert Lehman Collection, 1975. Source: The Met
Fig. 4 - Andrea Mantegna (Italian, 1430/31–1506). The Adoration of the Shepherds, shortly after 1450. Tempera on canvas, transferred from wood; 37.8 x 53.3 cm (14 7/8 x 21 in). New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 32.130.2. Purchase, Anonymous Gift, 1932. Source: The Met
CHILDREN’S WEAR
References:
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“1400–1500 in European fashion” Wikipedia. Accessed October 6, 2017. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1400%E2%80%931500_in_European_fashion
Historical Context
Europe during the 15th Century. Source: University of Texas Libraries
Events:
- 1453 – Fall of Constantinople to the Ottoman Turks
- The 1450s – Sable, lynx and other exotic furs become fashionable, replacing squirrel furs such as Miniver and vair. Ermine remains the prerogative of royalty. Women’s hair is pulled back from forehead and covered by a caul (small bag worn over a bun at the back of the head) or a crespine (mesh net). Fashionable women shave their foreheads and eyebrows. In warmer Italy married women wear their hair long, braided, in loose knots, and uncovered. Brocade becomes a luxury fabric as weaving techniques improve. The best fabric comes from Italy with Chinese, Indian, and Persian motifs reflecting increased trade with these countries.
Timeline Entries
Primary/Period Sources
Resources for Fashion History Research
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Digitized Primary/Period Sources
Secondary Sources
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