- artwork analysis
- garment analysis
1525 – 1530 Jan Jansz Mostaert, Portrait of An African Man
Deciphering Jan Jansz Mostaert's Portrait of an African Man reveals the presence of Black bodies within European court circles and hints at their position within them.
1874 – Amédée François, Blue silk afternoon dress
This afternoon dress, though not extravagant compared to some of the elaborately decorated gowns of 1874, proves to still be en vogue due to its bustled silhouette, tight-fitting bodice with an elongated waist, and decorated high neckline.
- film analysis
- thematic essays
- year overview
1939 – Cukor, The Women / 1956 – Miller, The Opposite Sex
Trusting Park Avenue socialite Mary Haines (Norma Shearer) loses her husband to scheming shopgirl Crystal Allen (Joan Crawford), and can only win him back if she becomes as cunning as her so-called friends.
Compartment Couture: New York City Department Stores 1850-1930 (Part 2)
Part 1 of this essay covers the emergence of department stores in New York City during the nineteenth century. Part 2 discusses the roles of salesclerks and anonymous fashion designers who worked for department store labels.
- ancient
- early Middle Ages
- 14th century
- 15th century
- 16th century
toga picta
A type of toga worn by an elite few in Ancient Rome and the Byzantine Empire that was richly embroidered, patterned and dyed solid purple.
tablion
A rectangular panel, often ornamented with embroidery or jewels, attached to the front of a cloak. Worn as a sign of status by Byzantine emperors and other important officials.
pattens
Wooden-soled platform over-shoes, which were commonly worn from the 14th century to the 18th century.
Spanish farthingale
A skirt made with a series of hoops that widened toward the feet to create a triangular or conical silhouette, created in the late fifteenth century.
jerkin
A close-fitting men's jacket, often worn for warmth, sometimes without sleeves. It was worn over a doublet in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries.
- 17th century
- 18th century
- 19th century
- 20th century
- 21st century
roses / rosettes
Rosettes are a decorative rose element usually found on shoes in the 17th century as fashion statement.
1747 – Arthur Devis, Mr. and Mrs. Bull
Arthur Devis's 1747 portrait of Mr. and Mrs. Bull seems to depict a quite fashionable couple in the year of their marriage in what we presume to be their home. But closer analysis reveals that much of the work is likely a fiction, though the clothes they're sporting--whether their own or imagined--remain fashionable.
carrick coat
The carrick coat is an overcoat with three to five cape collars popular in the 19th century and mostly worn for riding and travel--sometimes called a Garrick or coachman's coat.
1920-1929
Twenties fashion is often remembered for its glitz and glamour, though underlying this was a move toward simplicity in dress. For women, this meant shorter skirts and simple shapes, while men enjoyed casual suits.
2015 – Ralph Lauren, denim three-piece suit
Playing on the tradition of the 1970s leisure suit, American designer Ralph Lauren, presented a three-piece denim suit as a part of his 2015 luxury Purple Label Collection. Hybridizing two classically favored menswear items such as the navy suit and contemporary favorite dark denim, Lauren is able to suggest the marriage of two very distinct garments. The look tiptoes the line between dressy and casual daring the fashion industry and consumers alike to keep evolving beyond the status quo.
RECENT ESSAYS
froggingIn 18th century, 19th century, F, term definition
Gucci Strikes Red: China’s Love Affair with GucciIn 2000-2009, 2010-2019, 21st century, thematic essays
1870In 1870-1879, 19th century, year overview
1866 – Silk afternoon dress with a trompe l’oeil bolero jacketIn 1860-1869, 19th century, garment analysis
1572 – Lucas de Heere, The Family of Henry VIII: An Allegory of the Tudor SuccessionIn 1570-1579, 16th century, artwork analysis
