artwork analysis
garment analysis

1890 – William Merritt Chase, Carmencita

1890-1899, 19th century, artwork analysis

In this lively portrait of Carmencita, William Merritt Chase suggests the audience’s enthusiasm for her dancing by including a gold bracelet and flowers tossed at her feet. The celebrated dancer was painted by many other artists—usually wearing an extravagant dance costume—but none captured her exuberance quite like Chase did in this portrait.

2000 – John Galliano, Evening dress

2000-2009, 21st century, garment analysis

John Galliano impresses the fashion world at the turn of the century with this champagne-pink, punk rock inspired evening gown. The asymmetrical bias-cut silk, daring slit, and body-hugging boning make the garment sexy, intriguing, and memorable.

film analysis
thematic essays
year overview

1939 – Cukor, The Women / 1956 – Miller, The Opposite Sex

1930-1939, 1950-1959, film analysis

Trusting Park Avenue socialite Mary Haines (Norma Shearer) loses her husband to scheming shopgirl Crystal Allen (Joan Crawford), and can only win him back if she becomes as cunning as her so-called friends.

Compartment Couture: New York City Department Stores 1850-1930 (Part 2)

1900-1909, 1910-1919, 1920-1929, 19th century, 20th century, thematic essays

Part 1 of this essay covers the emergence of department stores in New York City during the nineteenth century. Part 2 discusses the roles of salesclerks and anonymous fashion designers who worked for department store labels.

1938

1930-1939, 20th century, year overview

The year 1938 was a period of transition from the catastrophic Great Depression to World War II. Women’s fashion was exuberant: vibrant colors, Surrealist accessories, ornate hats with minimal embellishments were key trends. However, the overall silhouette was simple, clean, and sophisticated. Hemlines began to fall down below the knees. Restrained, structured shoulders evolved into the iconic puff sleeve. Public figures such as the Duchess of Windsor inspired women in their everyday dress.

1930

1930-1939, 20th century, year overview
1870

1870-1879, 19th century, year overview
1869

1860-1869, 19th century, year overview

ancient
early Middle Ages
14th century
15th century
16th century

nemes headdress

ancient, H, N, term definition

Starched linen headdress worn only by royals in ancient Egypt.

peplos

ancient, P, term definition
kohl

ancient, K, term definition
toga picta

ancient, P, T, term definition
himation

ancient, H, term definition
chiton

ancient, C, term definition

tablion

Byzantine, T, term definition

A rectangular panel, often ornamented with embroidery or jewels, attached to the front of a cloak. Worn as a sign of status by Byzantine emperors and other important officials.

pattens

14th century, 15th century, P, term definition

Wooden-soled platform over-shoes, which were commonly worn from the 14th century to the 18th century.

poulaine

14th century, 15th century, P, term definition
doublet

14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, D, term definition
dagging

14th century, 15th century, 16th century, D, term definition
particolored

14th century, 15th century, P, term definition
1350-1399

1350-1399, 14th century, decade overview

stomacher

15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, S, term definition

A decorated triangular-shaped panel that fills in the front opening of a women’s gown or bodice during the late 15th century to the late 18th century.

1570-1579

1570-1579, 16th century, decade overview

Women in the 1570s believed more was more, loved intense decorative effects, and adopted some influences from menswear. Men’s dress was quite curvilinear, with a padded belly, small waist, and large bulbous melon hose at the thighs.

17th century
18th century
19th century
20th century
21st century

buff coat

17th century, B, C, term definition

A leather version of the doublet that was often, but not exclusively, worn by people in the military in the 17th century.

chopines

16th century, 17th century, C, term definition
jerkin

16th century, 17th century, J, term definition
roses / rosettes

17th century, R, term definition
pomander

16th century, 17th century, P, term definition
bum roll

16th century, 17th century, B, R, term definition

tricorne hat

18th century, H, T, term definition

A 3-cornered hat with a standing brim, which was popular in 18th century.

gigot sleeve

19th century, G, S, term definition

A sleeve that was full at the shoulder and became tightly fitted to the wrist. Also called leg-of-mutton sleeve.

1970-1979

1970-1979, 20th century, decade overview

Seventies fashion saw bold colors and patterns take center stage. Women's fashion looked back to the 1940s by day and pumped up the glamour by night. Men had an array of suit types to choose from and favored colorful plaids. Children's fashion followed adult fashion with bold plaids and bright colors with the distinction between genders lessening throughout the decade.

The Body: Fashion and Physique

18th century, 19th century, 20th century, 21st century, blog

“The Body: Fashion and Physique” explores fashion’s role in shaping and reflecting changing cultural ideals about the body through a selection of garments that highlight the origins and importance of contemporary body-positive trends.