- artwork analysis
- garment analysis
1778 – Joseph Siffred Duplessis, Benjamin Franklin
Joseph Siffred Duplessis's 1778 portrait of Benjamin Franklin participates in his carefully constructed image while in France as a plainly dressed American with provincial taste--though he actually dressed in the most expensive fabrics available.
1876-77 – Brass-colored silk day dress
"Fashion is so liberal now, that provided a dress is sufficiently clinging, and tied back, anything else may be worn." Peterson's Magazine aptly sums up the fashions of 1876-77 and this brass-colored silk day dress.
- film analysis
- thematic essays
- year overview
1939 – Cukor, The Women / 1956 – Miller, The Opposite Sex
Trusting Park Avenue socialite Mary Haines (Norma Shearer) loses her husband to scheming shopgirl Crystal Allen (Joan Crawford), and can only win him back if she becomes as cunning as her so-called friends.
Stout Fashion & Early 20th Century American Ready-to-Wear
In the early 20th century, the American ready-to-wear industry for stout women--whom we typically call plus-size today--emerged almost simultaneously as that for slimmer women. Stores like Lane Bryant offered a wide variety of clothing specially designed for stout women, who represented a growing portion of the population and had both the desire and income to spend on fashion goods. This essay explores how the industry evolved in the 1910s and 20s to serve them.
- ancient
- early Middle Ages
- 14th century
- 15th century
- 16th century
chiton
An ancient Greek garment created from a single piece of cloth wrapped around the body and held together by pins at the shoulders.
1964 – Glenville, Becket
King Henry II of England comes to terms with his affection for his close friend and confidant Thomas à Becket, who finds his true honor by observing God's divine will rather than the king's.
dagging
An extremely popular decorative edging technique created by cutting that reached its height during the Middle Ages and Renaissance.
1487-88 – Davide Ghirlandaio, Selvaggia Sassetti (born 1470)
Selvaggia may not be the most fashionable and extravagant person of her time, but we cannot be sure about that until the rest of her dress is revealed.
codpiece
Originally created as the join between the two hoses at the groin, the codpiece eventually became an ornate piece of male dress in the 16th century.
- 17th century
- 18th century
- 19th century
- 20th century
- 21st century
fontange
A linen cap with layers of lace and ribbon, worn flat and pinned to the back of the head.
1747 – Arthur Devis, Mr. and Mrs. Bull
Arthur Devis's 1747 portrait of Mr. and Mrs. Bull seems to depict a quite fashionable couple in the year of their marriage in what we presume to be their home. But closer analysis reveals that much of the work is likely a fiction, though the clothes they're sporting--whether their own or imagined--remain fashionable.
1884 – Edgar Degas, The Singer in Green
Although dressed in theatrical costume, Degas’ Singer in Green contains details that were fashionable for women’s evening wear at the time, including an off-the-shoulder neckline, a downward-pointing bodice, a diagonal-striped pattern, and a choker-style necklace. What is less fashionable is its lack of applied florals and the bold color palette, which signals the fact that it is a costume.
Stout Fashion & Early 20th Century American Ready-to-Wear
In the early 20th century, the American ready-to-wear industry for stout women--whom we typically call plus-size today--emerged almost simultaneously as that for slimmer women. Stores like Lane Bryant offered a wide variety of clothing specially designed for stout women, who represented a growing portion of the population and had both the desire and income to spend on fashion goods. This essay explores how the industry evolved in the 1910s and 20s to serve them.
The Body: Fashion and Physique
“The Body: Fashion and Physique” explores fashion’s role in shaping and reflecting changing cultural ideals about the body through a selection of garments that highlight the origins and importance of contemporary body-positive trends.
RECENT ESSAYS
codpieceIn 15th century, 16th century, C, term definition
daggingIn 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, D, term definition
1747 – Arthur Devis, Mr. and Mrs. BullIn 1740-1749, 18th century, artwork analysis
Stout Fashion & Early 20th Century American Ready-to-WearIn 1910-1919, 1920-1929, 20th century, thematic essays
1778 – Joseph Siffred Duplessis, Benjamin FranklinIn 1770-1779, 18th century, artwork analysis
