artwork analysis
garment analysis
film analysis

1906 – John White Alexander, Study in Black and Green

1900-1909, 20th century, artwork analysis

Alexander replicated this same evening gown in paintings over a six-year period as it slowly progressed from fashionable to outdated.

1977 – Vivienne Westwood/Malcom McLaren/Jamie Reid, “God Save the Queen” T- shirt

1970-1979, 20th century, garment analysis

Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren's “God Save the Queen” T-shirt is a white, long-sleeve shirt with distressed elements and a bold graphic by Jamie Reid featuring lyrics to the Sex Pistols song. It has become an iconic representation of early British Punk style.

1995 – Lee, Sense and Sensibility

1800-1809, 19th century, film analysis

The film Sense and Sensibility is based on a novel of the same name by Jane Austen, originally published in 1811. The adapted screenplay was written by Emma Thompson, who also plays one of the lead characters, Elinor Dashwood, whose costumes are the focus of this study.

designer profile
thematic essays
year overview

1922-1985 – Rudi Gernreich

20th century, designer profile, LGBTQ+

About the Designer Rudi Gernreich was an avant-garde designer whose works questioned the status quo of the fashion industry and often reflected his own political...

Norell: Flappers Back In Fashion

1920-1929, 1960-1969, 20th century, LGBTQ+, thematic essays

When the spirit of the ’60s brought new relevance to the ’20s silhouette, Norman Norell was at the vanguard of the revival. Indeed, at a time when other designers looked toward the future, Norell looked to the past.

1983

1980-1989, 20th century, year overview

1983 featured a flashback to the 1940s with menswear influences like strong shoulder pads and oversized coats. The overall look of the year is accentuated by the power belt that minimizes the waist and emphasizes the hips. In summary, volume fashion was a hit.

1982

1980-1989, 20th century, year overview
1880

1880-1889, 19th century, year overview
1868

1860-1869, 19th century, year overview

ancient
Middle Ages
14th century
15th century
16th century
17th century

xicolli

Americas, ancient, term definition, X

A xicolli is a sleeveless, sewn vest usually embellished with fringe that comes in various lengths worn by priests and high rank warriors in ancient Mesoamerican cultures.

eye of Horus

Africa, ancient, E, H, term definition
faience

Africa, ancient, F, term definition
tupu

14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, 19th century, Americas, ancient, T, term definition
huipilli/huipil

17th century, 18th century, 19th century, Americas, ancient, H, term definition
clavus/clavi

ancient, C, term definition

Byzantine

Asia, Byzantine, culture overview

Clothing during the Byzantine era was strictly regulated based on identity, status, rank, and gender. Visual and literary sources from the period provide a glimpse to Byzantine court and upper-class dress.

burqa

14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, 19th century, 20th century, 21st century, Asia, B, term definition

An outer garment worn by Muslim women that covers the entire body, often with a cutout or mesh at the eyes.

kaftan

14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, 19th century, Asia, C, K, term definition
cochineal dyes

14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, Americas, C, term definition
labret

14th century, 15th century, 16th century, Africa, Americas, L, term definition
pattens

1410-1419, 1420-1429, 1430-1439, 14th century, 15th century, P, term definition
poulaine

1350-1399, 1400-1409, 14th century, 15th century, P, term definition

1490-1499

1490-1499, 15th century, decade overview

The 1490s was an influential decade that set the groundwork for the following years to come in terms of predominant trends and silhouette. At the same time, regional influence held strong both in Italy and Spain.

The Virgin as a Fashion Icon: How the Virgin of Guadalupe Shapes Latinx Identity

16th century, 21st century, Americas, BIPOC, thematic essays

The image of the Virgin of Guadalupe is one that is intertwined with Latinx heritage and her identifiable symbols have been appropriated as an expression of individuality, identity, and pride.

adinkra

17th century, 18th century, 19th century, 20th century, A, Africa, BIPOC, term definition

Produced by the Asante peoples in Ghana, adinkra is a flat, cotton textile that is stamped with symbols which create the meaning of the garment.

banyan

17th century, 18th century, 19th century, B, term definition
raffia cloth

17th century, 18th century, 19th century, 20th century, Africa, R, term definition
kente

17th century, 18th century, 19th century, 20th century, 21st century, Africa, K, term definition
wampum

17th century, 18th century, 19th century, Americas, term definition, W
quillwork

17th century, 18th century, 19th century, Americas, Q, term definition

18th century
19th century
20th century
21st century
BIPOC
LGBTQ+

1785 – Adélaïde Labille-Guiard, Self-Portrait with Two Pupils

1780-1789, 18th century, artwork analysis

The self-portrait of Adélaïde Labille-Guiard alongside two of her students, Marie Gabrielle Capet and Marie Carreaux de Rosemond, shows the influence of the Rococo and Neoclassical styles in the late 18th century.

dashiki

19th century, 20th century, Africa, Americas, BIPOC, D, term definition

A loose-fitting pullover tunic traditionally worn in West African cultures that was adopted by African diasporic communities as a symbol of African heritage in the 1960s and then more widely worn as a popular item of "ethnic" fashion.

1970 – Rudi Gernreich, Caftan

1970-1979, 20th century, garment analysis, LGBTQ+

Rudi Gernreich's 1970 caftan reflects the designer's politics and his tireless effort toward creating genderless clothing. The piece features his characteristic loose silhouette as well as his technique of using patterns to de-accentuate the assumed gender of the wearer.

RECENT ESSAYS

1869 – Red Silk Dress
In 1860-1869, 19th century, garment analysis
katazome (stencil printing)
In 18th century, 19th century, ancient, Asia, K, P, S, term definition
1905 – André Derain, Lucien Gilbert
In 1900-1909, 20th century, artwork analysis
Inès Gâches-Sarraute and the Straight-Front Corset
In 1890-1899, 1900-1909, 1910-1919, 19th century, 20th century, thematic essays
1906 – John White Alexander, Study in Black and Green
In 1900-1909, 20th century, artwork analysis