artwork analysis
garment analysis
film analysis

545-549 CE – Imperial Mosaics of the Basilica of San Vitale

artwork analysis, Byzantine, Middle Ages

The church of San Vitale in Ravenna is one of the most important Byzantine monuments in northeastern Italy. The basilica is fully decorated by mosaics, including two depicting Emperor Justinian and Empress Theodora, which reveal the key features of sixth-century imperial style.

1955 – Charles James, Butterfly dress

1950-1959, 20th century, garment analysis, LGBTQ+

Charles James' 1955 “Butterfly” gown features a body-conscious sculpted sheath and large bustle skirt, which is reminiscent of the tightly fitted bustle dresses of the early 1880s.

1939 – Cukor, The Women / 1956 – Miller, The Opposite Sex

1930-1939, 1950-1959, film analysis

Trusting Park Avenue socialite Mary Haines (Norma Shearer) loses her husband to scheming shopgirl Crystal Allen (Joan Crawford), and can only win him back if she becomes as cunning as her so-called friends.

designer profile
thematic essays
year overview

1927-2001 – Maija Isola

1950-1959, 1960-1969, 20th century, designer profile

The designer of many of Marimekko’s classic stand-out prints was Maija Isola, who famously abandoned conservative designs in favor of bold, graphic styles. Her work includes unique floral and nature-inspired designs, and is exhibited in museums including the Victoria and Albert Museum, Design Museum Copenhagen, and the Minneapolis Institute of Arts

Treasures of Sitio Conte and Personal Adornment of the Coclé

Americas, ancient, thematic essays

Between the fifth century and tenth century, the Coclé people inhabited an archaeological area in Central America known as Gran Coclé, which coincides with the modern-day Panamanian province of Coclé. A remarkable necropolis titled Sitio Conte there contains many precious objects that express social status, political power, and religious beliefs, while also demonstrating expert metal-smithing in the luxurious ornamentation of rulers and depictions of gods.

1880

1880-1889, 19th century, year overview

Basque bodices with lace trimming were highly fashionable for women in the year 1880. Polka-dotted textiles appeared frequently in fashion plates, and the color purple was considered stylish.

1868

1860-1869, 19th century, year overview
1938

1930-1939, 20th century, year overview
1930

1930-1939, 20th century, year overview

ancient
Middle Ages
14th century
15th century
16th century
17th century

huipilli/huipil

17th century, 18th century, 19th century, Americas, ancient, H, term definition

A woven rectangular shirt worn by women in Central America beginning in ancient times.

clavus/clavi

ancient, C, term definition
nemes headdress

ancient, H, N, term definition
peplos

ancient, P, term definition
kohl

ancient, K, term definition
toga picta

ancient, P, T, term definition

barbette

1300-1349, 1350-1399, 14th century, 15th century, B, Middle Ages, term definition

A piece of linen which passes under the chin and is pinned at the sides, usually worn in conjunction with additional head coverings during the Middle Ages.

tablion

Byzantine, T, term definition
dalmatic tunic

Byzantine, D, T, term definition
Byzantine

Byzantine, culture overview
Early Middle Ages

decade overview, Middle Ages

cochineal dyes

14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, Americas, C, term definition

Cochineal dyes come from the Cochineal beetle that is native to the Americas and is most commonly found on prickly pear cacti. When dried and crushed it creates its famous red pigment that is used to dye textiles.

labret

14th century, 15th century, 16th century, Africa, Americas, L, term definition
pattens

1410-1419, 1420-1429, 1430-1439, 14th century, 15th century, P, term definition
poulaine

1350-1399, 1400-1409, 14th century, 15th century, P, term definition
doublet

1490-1499, 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, D, term definition
dagging

14th century, 15th century, 16th century, D, term definition

1490-1499

1490-1499, 15th century, decade overview

The 1490s was an influential decade that set the groundwork for the following years to come in terms of predominant trends and silhouette. At the same time, regional influence held strong both in Italy and Spain.

1583/5 – Annibale Carracci, Portrait of a Woman Holding a Clock

1580-1589, 16th century, artwork analysis, BIPOC

This 16th-century portrait attributed to Annibale Carracci is valuable for its realistic depiction of a Black sitter, possibly a seamstress, who is dressed in a fine but sensible black day dress with touches of Italian luxury.

kente

17th century, 18th century, 19th century, 20th century, 21st century, Africa, K, term definition

Kente is a Ghanaian strip woven textile that has striped patterns and bright colors with corresponding meanings.

wampum

17th century, 18th century, 19th century, Americas, term definition, W
quillwork

17th century, 18th century, 19th century, Americas, Q, term definition
chantilly lace

17th century, 18th century, 19th century, 20th century, 21st century, C, L, term definition
1650 – Diego Velázquez, Juan de Pareja

1650-1659, 17th century, artwork analysis, BIPOC
rebato

17th century, R, term definition

18th century
19th century
20th century
21st century
BIPOC
LGBTQ+

1760-1769

1760-1769, 18th century, decade overview

The 1760s mark the last decade during which the robe à la française dominated women’s wardrobes since it was first introduced in the 1720s. In the last three decades of the eighteenth century, other, more informal styles became fashionable for daywear and the robe à la française was increasingly worn for evening. For men, the distinction between the subdued informality of Englishmen’s dress and the colorful formality of Continental styles (particularly those of France and Italy) remained pronounced, although this would change in the following decades in favor of the former. The narrowing of the coat that began around 1750 continued in this decade and a low standing collar that would increase in height until the end of the century appeared in the middle years.

pelete bite

19th century, 20th century, 21st century, Africa, B, P, term definition

Pelete bite is a fabric created by the Kalabari Ijo peoples of the Niger Delta region by cutting threads out of imported cloth to create motifs.

ikat

19th century, 20th century, I, term definition
Akwete

19th century, 20th century, A, Africa, term definition
moccasins

19th century, Americas, M, term definition
bark cloth

19th century, 20th century, Africa, B, term definition
back apron (negbe)

19th century, 20th century, A, Africa, B, N, term definition

boubou

19th century, 20th century, Africa, B, term definition

The boubou is an African robe made of one large rectangle of fabric with an opening in the center for the neck. When worn it drapes down over the shoulders and billows at the sleeves.

2000-2009

2000-2009, 21st century, decade overview

As the new decade and millennium dawned, fashion largely continued along the same trajectory that had started in the late 1990s. However, in the aftermath of the September 11, 2001 attacks, fashion returned to conservatism. With the rise of new technology, fashion spread quickly and celebrities played a key role in consumer choices as images were shared through the internet instantly. While popular styles changed over the years, one item remained ubiquitous throughout the decade: denim jeans.

The Virgin as a Fashion Icon: How the Virgin of Guadalupe Shapes Latinx Identity

16th century, 21st century, Americas, BIPOC, thematic essays

The image of the Virgin of Guadalupe is one that is intertwined with Latinx heritage and her identifiable symbols have been appropriated as an expression of individuality, identity, and pride.

1955 – Charles James, Butterfly dress

1950-1959, 20th century, garment analysis, LGBTQ+

Charles James' 1955 “Butterfly” gown features a body-conscious sculpted sheath and large bustle skirt, which is reminiscent of the tightly fitted bustle dresses of the early 1880s.