artwork analysis
garment analysis
film analysis

1937—Frida Kahlo, Self-Portrait Dedicated to Leon Trotsky

1930-1939, 20th century, artwork analysis

Self-Portrait Dedicated to Leon Trotsky shows a front-facing Frida Kahlo holding a letter with a bouquet of flowers in her arms. Brilliant white curtains flank each side against a green background to reveal an elegantly dressed Frida, who adopts elements of Mexican Zapotec dress.

1995 – Vivienne Tam, “Mao Collection” Dress

1990-1999, 20th century, garment analysis

In November 1994, Vivienne Tam presented her spring 1995 collection, which would become one of the most notable of her career. Known as the “Mao collection”, it comprised of t-shirts, dresses, and skirt suits featuring comical images of Mao Zedong (1893-1976), the founding father of the People's Republic of China (PRC) and former chairman of the Communist Party of China.

1939 – Cukor, The Women / 1956 – Miller, The Opposite Sex

1930-1939, 1950-1959, film analysis

Trusting Park Avenue socialite Mary Haines (Norma Shearer) loses her husband to scheming shopgirl Crystal Allen (Joan Crawford), and can only win him back if she becomes as cunning as her so-called friends.

designer profile
thematic essays
year overview

1948-1987 – Willi Smith

1970-1979, 1980-1989, BIPOC, designer profile, LGBTQ+

Willi Smith was the popularly renowned designer behind Williwear, a womenswear line that opened in 1976. He was known for his innovative blend of the newly-emerging concept of streetwear with high fashion.

Roaring & Swinging: Shared Fashionable Ideals of Flappers and Mods

1920-1929, 1960-1969, 20th century, thematic essays

Flappers and mods rebelled against the traditional image of femininity held by the generations before them. Although their worlds were very different, their fashion and beauty ideals were remarkably similar.

1880

1880-1889, 19th century, year overview

Basque bodices with lace trimming were highly fashionable for women in the year 1880. Polka-dotted textiles appeared frequently in fashion plates, and the color purple was considered stylish.

1868

1860-1869, 19th century, year overview
1938

1930-1939, 20th century, year overview
1930

1930-1939, 20th century, year overview

ancient
Middle Ages
14th century
15th century
16th century
17th century

clavus/clavi

ancient, C, term definition

Decorative vertical stripes that ran over the shoulder on the front and back of a Late Roman or Byzantine tunic.

nemes headdress

ancient, H, N, term definition
peplos

ancient, P, term definition
kohl

ancient, K, term definition
toga picta

ancient, P, T, term definition
himation

ancient, H, term definition

barbette

1300-1349, 1350-1399, 14th century, 15th century, B, Middle Ages, term definition

A piece of linen which passes under the chin and is pinned at the sides, usually worn in conjunction with additional head coverings during the Middle Ages.

tablion

Byzantine, T, term definition
dalmatic tunic

Byzantine, D, T, term definition
Byzantine

Byzantine, culture overview
Early Middle Ages

decade overview, Middle Ages

pattens

1410-1419, 1420-1429, 1430-1439, 14th century, 15th century, P, term definition

Wooden-soled platform over-shoes, which were commonly worn from the 14th century to the 18th century.

poulaine

1350-1399, 1400-1409, 14th century, 15th century, P, term definition
doublet

1490-1499, 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, D, term definition
dagging

14th century, 15th century, 16th century, D, term definition
particolored

1460-1469, 1470-1479, 1480-1489, 1490-1499, 14th century, 15th century, P, term definition
1350-1399

1350-1399, 14th century, decade overview

1420-1429

1420-1429, 15th century, decade overview

The duchy of Burgundy, enriched by the wealth of its Flemish cities, was the leading center of fashion during the 1420s. The Duke of Burgundy's alliance with England supported the production of the finest woolen textiles, woven in Flanders from English yarn. Merchants used their profits from manufacture and trade to rival aristocrats as the greatest consumers of Italian silk velvets and other luxuries. Throughout Europe, men dressed in black and women with tall, horn-shaped headdresses were signs of Burgundian influence.

chaperon

15th century, C, term definition
1410-1419

1410-1419, 15th century, decade overview
1400-1409

1400-1409, 15th century, decade overview
stomacher

15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, S, term definition
Spanish farthingale

15th century, 16th century, 17th century, F, S, term definition

1583/5 – Annibale Carracci, Portrait of a Woman Holding a Clock

1580-1589, 16th century, artwork analysis, BIPOC

This 16th-century portrait attributed to Annibale Carracci is valuable for its realistic depiction of a Black sitter, possibly a seamstress, who is dressed in a fine but sensible black day dress with touches of Italian luxury.

1650 – Diego Velázquez, Juan de Pareja

1650-1659, 17th century, artwork analysis, BIPOC

This dignified portrait by Diego Velázquez depicts his enslaved Black assistant, Juan de Pareja, who was a skilled artist in his own right.

rebato

17th century, R, term definition
falling band

1630-1639, 1640-1649, 1650-1659, 17th century, B, F, term definition
guipure lace

17th century, 18th century, 19th century, G, L, term definition
1690-1699

1690-1699, 17th century, decade overview
1680-1689

1680-1689, 17th century, decade overview

18th century
19th century
20th century
21st century
BIPOC
LGBTQ+

1783 – Élisabeth Louise Vigée Le Brun, Marie Antoinette in a Chemise Dress

1780-1789, 18th century, artwork analysis

Vigée Le Brun's infamous portrait of Marie Antoinette embodies the tension between fashion and politics in 18th-century France.

muslin

19th century, M, term definition

Muslin is a simple plain-weave textile made out of cotton and available in varying weights and finishes. Historically, there were also varieties of muslin in silk and wool.

1990-1999

1990-1999, 20th century, decade overview

As the 20th century came to a close, fashion reached its most casual. Both men and women adopted grunge fashion in the early part of the decade and loose, oversized clothing and jeans became staples. As the decade progressed, women's fashion became more streamlined as minimalism became de rigueur, while children's clothing often featured popular Disney characters.