artwork analysis
garment analysis
film analysis

1770-96 – Agostino Brunias, Free Women of Color with Their Children and Servants in a Landscape

1770-1779, 1780-1789, 1790-1799, 18th century, artwork analysis

In a late 18th-century painting organized by skin tone, Agostino Brunias has depicted a range of colonial Dominican fashions from the wealthy elite to the poorest people whom they enslaved.

1990 – Vivienne Westwood, “Portrait Collection” Corset

1990-1999, 20th century, garment analysis

Vivienne Westwood's 1990 corset from her "Portrait Collection" took an 18th-century painting and garment type and updated them to the 20th century. She emphasized the erotic power of the form, but employed more modern, flexible materials to improve comfort.

1939 – Cukor, The Women / 1956 – Miller, The Opposite Sex

1930-1939, 1950-1959, film analysis

Trusting Park Avenue socialite Mary Haines (Norma Shearer) loses her husband to scheming shopgirl Crystal Allen (Joan Crawford), and can only win him back if she becomes as cunning as her so-called friends.

designer profile
thematic essays
year overview

1948-1987 – Willi Smith

1970-1979, 1980-1989, BIPOC, designer profile, LGBTQ+

Willi Smith was the popularly renowned designer behind Williwear, a womenswear line that opened in 1976. He was known for his innovative blend of the newly-emerging concept of streetwear with high fashion.

Roaring & Swinging: Shared Fashionable Ideals of Flappers and Mods

1920-1929, 1960-1969, 20th century, thematic essays

Flappers and mods rebelled against the traditional image of femininity held by the generations before them. Although their worlds were very different, their fashion and beauty ideals were remarkably similar.

1880

1880-1889, 19th century, year overview

Basque bodices with lace trimming were highly fashionable for women in the year 1880. Polka-dotted textiles appeared frequently in fashion plates, and the color purple was considered stylish.

1868

1860-1869, 19th century, year overview
1938

1930-1939, 20th century, year overview
1930

1930-1939, 20th century, year overview

ancient
Middle Ages
14th century
15th century
16th century
17th century

clavus/clavi

ancient, C, term definition

Decorative vertical stripes that ran over the shoulder on the front and back of a Late Roman or Byzantine tunic.

nemes headdress

ancient, H, N, term definition
peplos

ancient, P, term definition
kohl

ancient, K, term definition
toga picta

ancient, P, T, term definition
himation

ancient, H, term definition

barbette

1300-1349, 1350-1399, 14th century, 15th century, B, Middle Ages, term definition

A piece of linen which passes under the chin and is pinned at the sides, usually worn in conjunction with additional head coverings during the Middle Ages.

tablion

Byzantine, T, term definition
dalmatic tunic

Byzantine, D, T, term definition
Byzantine

Byzantine, culture overview
Early Middle Ages

decade overview, Middle Ages

cochineal dyes

14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, Americas, C, term definition

Cochineal dyes come from the Cochineal beetle that is native to the Americas and is most commonly found on prickly pear cacti. When dried and crushed it creates its famous red pigment that is used to dye textiles.

labret

14th century, 15th century, 16th century, Africa, Americas, L, term definition
pattens

1410-1419, 1420-1429, 1430-1439, 14th century, 15th century, P, term definition
poulaine

1350-1399, 1400-1409, 14th century, 15th century, P, term definition
doublet

1490-1499, 14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, D, term definition
dagging

14th century, 15th century, 16th century, D, term definition

1420-1429

1420-1429, 15th century, decade overview

The duchy of Burgundy, enriched by the wealth of its Flemish cities, was the leading center of fashion during the 1420s. The Duke of Burgundy's alliance with England supported the production of the finest woolen textiles, woven in Flanders from English yarn. Merchants used their profits from manufacture and trade to rival aristocrats as the greatest consumers of Italian silk velvets and other luxuries. Throughout Europe, men dressed in black and women with tall, horn-shaped headdresses were signs of Burgundian influence.

chaperon

15th century, C, term definition
1410-1419

1410-1419, 15th century, decade overview
1400-1409

1400-1409, 15th century, decade overview
stomacher

15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, S, term definition
Spanish farthingale

15th century, 16th century, 17th century, F, S, term definition

1583/5 – Annibale Carracci, Portrait of a Woman Holding a Clock

1580-1589, 16th century, artwork analysis, BIPOC

This 16th-century portrait attributed to Annibale Carracci is valuable for its realistic depiction of a Black sitter, possibly a seamstress, who is dressed in a fine but sensible black day dress with touches of Italian luxury.

wampum

17th century, 18th century, 19th century, Americas, term definition, W

Wampum are shell beads strung together by American Indians to create images and patterns on accessories such as headbands and belts that can also be used as currency for trading.

quillwork

17th century, 18th century, 19th century, Americas, Q, term definition
chantilly lace

17th century, 18th century, 19th century, 20th century, 21st century, C, L, term definition
1650 – Diego Velázquez, Juan de Pareja

1650-1659, 17th century, artwork analysis, BIPOC
rebato

17th century, R, term definition
falling band

1630-1639, 1640-1649, 1650-1659, 17th century, B, F, term definition

18th century
19th century
20th century
21st century
BIPOC
LGBTQ+

1788 – Jacques Louis David, Antoine-Laurent Lavoisier and Marie-Anne Lavoisier

1780-1789, 18th century, artwork analysis

Jacques-Louis David painted famed scientist, Antoine-Laurent Lavoisier, and his wife, Marie-Anne Pierrette Paulze, in 1788. This dual portrait was commissioned by Lavoisier and is executed in the neoclassical naturalism for which David is best known. Both are dressed in the latest fashions, embracing simplicity (in Paulze’s case) and somber restraint (in Lavoisier’s).

Akwete

19th century, 20th century, A, Africa, term definition

Akwete is a decorative cloth with complex weave designs, creating intricate geometric patterns, made with many vibrant colors. It is usually made into wrappers for women to wear and it is made by the Igbo women of Nigeria.

moccasins

19th century, Americas, M, term definition
bark cloth

19th century, 20th century, Africa, B, term definition
back apron (negbe)

19th century, 20th century, A, Africa, B, N, term definition
boubou

19th century, 20th century, Africa, B, term definition
muslin

19th century, M, term definition

1942 – Gilbert Adrian, Evening dress

1940-1949, 20th century, garment analysis, LGBTQ+

Gilbert Adrian’s evening dress is fashionable because it followed the strict guidelines of General Limitation Order L-85 during World War II, but still was able to capture the sense of hopefulness felt by the American people with its playful and uplifting charm.