artwork analysis
garment analysis

1897 – John Singer Sargent, Mr. and Mrs. I. N. Phelps Stokes (Mr. I. N. Phelps Stokes)

1890-1899, 19th century, artwork analysis

Though he stands in the shadows, Mr. I. N. Phelps Stokes' suit sheds light on significant developments occurring in menswear at the end of the nineteenth century.

1898-1901 – Green silk embroidered tea gown

1890-1899, 1900-1909, 19th century, 20th century, garment analysis

This late 19th-century embroidered tea gown combines design features of several artistic movements of the time, including historicism, Japonisme, and Art Nouveau.

film analysis
thematic essays
year overview

1939 – Cukor, The Women / 1956 – Miller, The Opposite Sex

1930-1939, 1950-1959, film analysis

Trusting Park Avenue socialite Mary Haines (Norma Shearer) loses her husband to scheming shopgirl Crystal Allen (Joan Crawford), and can only win him back if she becomes as cunning as her so-called friends.

Compartment Couture: New York City Department Stores 1850-1930 (Part 2)

1900-1909, 1910-1919, 1920-1929, 19th century, 20th century, thematic essays

Part 1 of this essay covers the emergence of department stores in New York City during the nineteenth century. Part 2 discusses the roles of salesclerks and anonymous fashion designers who worked for department store labels.

1938

1930-1939, 20th century, year overview

The year 1938 was a period of transition from the catastrophic Great Depression to World War II. Women’s fashion was exuberant: vibrant colors, Surrealist accessories, ornate hats with minimal embellishments were key trends. However, the overall silhouette was simple, clean, and sophisticated. Hemlines began to fall down below the knees. Restrained, structured shoulders evolved into the iconic puff sleeve. Public figures such as the Duchess of Windsor inspired women in their everyday dress.

1930

1930-1939, 20th century, year overview
1870

1870-1879, 19th century, year overview
1869

1860-1869, 19th century, year overview

ancient
early Middle Ages
14th century
15th century
16th century

nemes headdress

ancient, H, N, term definition

Starched linen headdress worn only by royals in ancient Egypt.

peplos

ancient, P, term definition
kohl

ancient, K, term definition
toga picta

ancient, P, T, term definition
himation

ancient, H, term definition
chiton

ancient, C, term definition

barbette

14th century, 15th century, B, early Middle Ages, term definition

A piece of linen which passes under the chin and is pinned at the sides, usually worn in conjunction with additional head coverings during the Middle Ages.

tablion

Byzantine, T, term definition
dalmatic tunic

Byzantine, D, T, term definition
Byzantine

Byzantine, culture overview
Early Middle Ages

decade overview, early Middle Ages

pattens

14th century, 15th century, P, term definition

Wooden-soled platform over-shoes, which were commonly worn from the 14th century to the 18th century.

poulaine

14th century, 15th century, P, term definition
doublet

14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, D, term definition
dagging

14th century, 15th century, 16th century, D, term definition
particolored

14th century, 15th century, P, term definition
1350-1399

1350-1399, 14th century, decade overview

1410-1419

1410-1419, 15th century, decade overview

Fashion during this decade turned away from extravagance and towards simplicity. The elaborate fashions of the court of France that were dominant throughout Europe reached their peak in 1415. In that year, the French defeat at the hands of the English at the Battle of Agincourt, in part because they were over-armored and over-dressed, forced a reckoning. Long houppelandes, bombard sleeves, and decorative dagging declined, and the English and Burgundians took a greater share in fashion leadership.

1400-1409

1400-1409, 15th century, decade overview
stomacher

15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, S, term definition
Spanish farthingale

15th century, 16th century, 17th century, F, S, term definition
panes/paning

15th century, 16th century, 17th century, P, term definition
codpiece

15th century, 16th century, C, term definition

bombast/bombasted

16th century, 17th century, B, term definition

The padding used to structure clothing and create fashionable silhouettes in the 16th and 17th centuries.

17th century
18th century
19th century
20th century
21st century

1620-1629

1620-1629, 17th century, decade overview

The 1620s saw the adoption of leg-of-mutton sleeves in both men’s and womenswear; while men’s clothing achieved an elegant, longer line, women’s dress became high-waisted and fuller.

caraco

18th century, C, term definition

18th century women's jacket, fitted around the torso and flared out after the waist.

1860-1869

1860-1869, 19th century, decade overview

During the 1860s, the cage crinoline allowed women's skirts to reach their apex in size, while menswear relaxed into wide, easy cuts. Advances in technology, such as the sewing machine and aniline dyes, and the rise of Parisian couture, beginning with the House of Worth, changed the fashion landscape.

chemisette

19th century, C, term definition
1870-1879

1870-1879, 19th century, decade overview
1880-1889

1880-1889, 19th century, decade overview
gigot sleeve

19th century, G, S, term definition
aniline dyes

19th century, A, D, term definition

1900-1909

1900-1909, 20th century, decade overview

While technology progressed in the first decade of the twentieth century, fashion largely remained the same. Subtle changes in silhouette occurred in womenswear until the tubular shape of the 1910s was beginning to emerge by the end of the decade. Lace and other embellishments were key. Menswear continued to see the suit as the primary style, though the tuxedo became increasingly acceptable as formal wear in the evening. Children continued to be dressed like mini-adults and styles such has the sailor suit continued to be popular options.

2000 – John Galliano, Evening dress

2000-2009, 21st century, garment analysis

John Galliano impresses the fashion world at the turn of the century with this champagne-pink, punk rock inspired evening gown. The asymmetrical bias-cut silk, daring slit, and body-hugging boning make the garment sexy, intriguing, and memorable.