artwork analysis
garment analysis

1878 – James Tissot, Evening

1870-1879, 19th century, artwork analysis

Tissot paid close attention to dress details, but his habit of adding a personal flair into the design sometimes rendered his paintings somewhat out-of-step with contemporary fashion trends.

1872 – Emile Pingat, Visiting Dress

1870-1879, 19th century, garment analysis

Emile Pingat's lavish visiting dresses were the height of fashion for decades; this one is eye-catching for its color-blocking, careful details, and complicated finishings.

film analysis
thematic essays
year overview

1939 – Cukor, The Women / 1956 – Miller, The Opposite Sex

1930-1939, 1950-1959, film analysis

Trusting Park Avenue socialite Mary Haines (Norma Shearer) loses her husband to scheming shopgirl Crystal Allen (Joan Crawford), and can only win him back if she becomes as cunning as her so-called friends.

Compartment Couture: New York City Department Stores 1850-1930 (Part 2)

1900-1909, 1910-1919, 1920-1929, 19th century, 20th century, thematic essays

Part 1 of this essay covers the emergence of department stores in New York City during the nineteenth century. Part 2 discusses the roles of salesclerks and anonymous fashion designers who worked for department store labels.

1938

1930-1939, 20th century, year overview

The year 1938 was a period of transition from the catastrophic Great Depression to World War II. Women’s fashion was exuberant: vibrant colors, Surrealist accessories, ornate hats with minimal embellishments were key trends. However, the overall silhouette was simple, clean, and sophisticated. Hemlines began to fall down below the knees. Restrained, structured shoulders evolved into the iconic puff sleeve. Public figures such as the Duchess of Windsor inspired women in their everyday dress.

1930

1930-1939, 20th century, year overview
1870

1870-1879, 19th century, year overview
1869

1860-1869, 19th century, year overview

ancient
early Middle Ages
14th century
15th century
16th century

clavus/clavi

ancient, C, term definition

Decorative vertical stripes that ran over the shoulder on the front and back of a Late Roman or Byzantine tunic.

nemes headdress

ancient, H, N, term definition
peplos

ancient, P, term definition
kohl

ancient, K, term definition
toga picta

ancient, P, T, term definition
himation

ancient, H, term definition

barbette

14th century, 15th century, B, early Middle Ages, term definition

A piece of linen which passes under the chin and is pinned at the sides, usually worn in conjunction with additional head coverings during the Middle Ages.

tablion

Byzantine, T, term definition
dalmatic tunic

Byzantine, D, T, term definition
Byzantine

Byzantine, culture overview
Early Middle Ages

decade overview, early Middle Ages

pattens

14th century, 15th century, P, term definition

Wooden-soled platform over-shoes, which were commonly worn from the 14th century to the 18th century.

poulaine

14th century, 15th century, P, term definition
doublet

14th century, 15th century, 16th century, 17th century, D, term definition
dagging

14th century, 15th century, 16th century, D, term definition
particolored

14th century, 15th century, P, term definition
1350-1399

1350-1399, 14th century, decade overview

1420-1429

1420-1429, 15th century, decade overview

The duchy of Burgundy, enriched by the wealth of its Flemish cities, was the leading center of fashion during the 1420s. The Duke of Burgundy's alliance with England supported the production of the finest woolen textiles, woven in Flanders from English yarn. Merchants used their profits from manufacture and trade to rival aristocrats as the greatest consumers of Italian silk velvets and other luxuries. Throughout Europe, men dressed in black and women with tall, horn-shaped headdresses were signs of Burgundian influence.

chaperon

15th century, C, term definition
1410-1419

1410-1419, 15th century, decade overview
1400-1409

1400-1409, 15th century, decade overview
stomacher

15th century, 16th century, 17th century, 18th century, S, term definition
Spanish farthingale

15th century, 16th century, 17th century, F, S, term definition

1592 – Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger, Elizabeth I (1533-1601), Queen of England

1590-1599, 16th century, artwork analysis

Queen Elizabeth I’s striking ensemble in The Ditchley Portrait by Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger embodied the height and extremity of 1590s court fashion.

17th century
18th century
19th century
20th century
21st century

1640-1649

1640-1649, 17th century, decade overview

The 1640s saw womenswear trend in a softer and slightly simpler direction, with low necklines and billowing three-quarter length sleeves often in satin of a single color. With much of Europe at war, menswear took on a more militaristic edge and a parallel simplification, with the wearing of buff coats widely adopted in England.

caraco

18th century, C, term definition

18th century women's jacket, fitted around the torso and flared out after the waist.

1820-1829

1820-1829, 19th century, decade overview

The 1820s were a transitional period away from the "Empire" silhouette and Neoclassical influences. Instead, Romanticism became the chief influence on fashion, as Gothic decoration lavished dresses and historicism inspired styles borrowed from past centuries. Layers of color and an increasingly exaggerated silhouette, for both men and women, created a style of dramatic display by the end of the decade.

1900-1909

1900-1909, 20th century, decade overview

While technology progressed in the first decade of the twentieth century, fashion largely remained the same. Subtle changes in silhouette occurred in womenswear until the tubular shape of the 1910s was beginning to emerge by the end of the decade. Lace and other embellishments were key. Menswear continued to see the suit as the primary style, though the tuxedo became increasingly acceptable as formal wear in the evening. Children continued to be dressed like mini-adults and styles such has the sailor suit continued to be popular options.

2000 – John Galliano, Evening dress

2000-2009, 21st century, garment analysis

John Galliano impresses the fashion world at the turn of the century with this champagne-pink, punk rock inspired evening gown. The asymmetrical bias-cut silk, daring slit, and body-hugging boning make the garment sexy, intriguing, and memorable.