The Victoria & Albert Museum in their “Introduction to 20th-Century Fashion” writes of this period:

“Designers began to look to nations of the so-called ‘Third World’ for inspiration and nostalgically turned to the past, especially the 1930s and ’40s, for stylistic guidance. In the luxurious world of high fashion Bill Gibb became famous for his clothes embellished with applique and embroidered designs. A full-skirted 1972 dress with matching turban reflects the mood for clothing with a gentle ethnic influence. It is made of patchworked cotton fabrics designed by Susan Collier and Sarah Campbell for Liberty and has applied leather thongs and streamers.”


Egon and Diane Von Furstenberg

Fig. 1 - Photographer unknown. Egon and Diane Von Furstenberg, 1970. Source: Gioia


[To come…]



Historical Context

Wikipedia: 1970-1979
  • 1971 – Halston, considered by American socialites as the best evening wear designer, is given the “Winnie” (women’s wear award) at the Coty American Fashion Critics’ Awards.
  • 1972 – Japanese designer Kansai Yamamoto designs costumes for David Bowie’s Ziggy Stardust tour. British designer Bill Gibb holds his debut fashion show at the Oriental Club, London. His romantic clothes include printed leather skirts and colorful knits.
  • 1975 – Italian designer Giorgio Armani founds his own label. London punk band the Sex Pistols play their first gig at Saint Martin’s College of Art.
  • 1976 – The comedy crime drama Charlie’s Angels makes its debut on US television. The three female leads are celebrated for their hairstyles and individual fashion choices.
  • 1977 – Ralph Lauren styles Diane Keaton’s wardrobe in Woody Allen’s film Annie Hall, launching numerous copycat looks of baggy linen pants and crisp white shirts and ties for women.
  • 1978 – Perry Ellis founds his own line, showing American sportswear, clothes with loose tailoring, long lines, and oversized sweaters.

Primary/Period Sources

Resources for Fashion History Research

To discover primary/period sources, explore the categories below.
Have a primary source to suggest?  Or a newly digitized periodical/book to announce?  Contact us!

Periodicals (Digitized)
Pathé, British. “The Fashion Archive,” n.d. https://www.britishpathe.com/workspaces/BritishPathe/The-Fashion-Archive.
The Harper’s Bazaar Archive (Subscription Required), n.d. https://www.proquest.com/products-services/Harpers-Bazaar-Archive.html.
Vogue Archive (Subscription Required), n.d. https://login.voguearchive.com.
Allen, Woody. Annie Hall, 1977. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0075686/.
Allen, Woody. Manhattan, 1979. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0079522/.
Allen, Woody. Sleeper, 1973. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0070707/.
Altman, Robert. Nashville, 1975. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0073440/.
Anderson, Michael. Logan’s Run, 1976. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0074812/.
Antonioni, Michelangelo. Zabriskie Point, 1970. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066601/.
Badham, John. Saturday Night Fever, 1977. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0076666/.
Bertolucci, Bernardo. Last Tango in Paris, 1973. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0070849/.
Buñuel, Luis. Tristana, 1970. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066491/.
Buñuel, Luis. The Discreet Charm of the Bourgeoisie, 1972. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0068361/.
Cammell, Donald, and Nicolas Roeg. Performance, 1970. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066214/.
Fleischer, Richard. Soylent Green, 1973. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0070723/.
Higgins, Colin. Foul Play, 1978. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0077578/.
Hiller, Arthur. Love Story, 1970. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0066011/.
Hutton, Brian G. X, Y and Zee, 1972. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0069516/.
Kershner, Irvin. Eyes of Laura Mars, 1978. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0077530/.
Lucas, George. Star Wars: Episode IV - A New Hope, 1977. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0076759/.
Lumet, Sidney. Network, 1976. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0074958/.
Pakula, Alan J. Klute, 1971. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0067309/.
Pakula, Alan J. The Parallax View, 1974. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0071970/.
Palma, Brian De. Carrie, 1976. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0074285/.
Parks, Gordon. Shaft, 1971. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0067741/.
Peebles, Melvin Van. Sweet Sweetback’s Baadasssss Song, 1973. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0067810/.
Rohmer, Éric. My Night at Maud’s, 1970. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0064612/.
Rohmer, Éric. Claire’s Knee, 1971. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0065772/.
Ross, Herbert. Play It Again, Sam, 1972. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0069097/.
Schlesinger, John. Sunday Bloody Sunday, 1971. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0067805/.
Scorsese, Martin. Taxi Driver, 1976. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0075314/.
Truffaut, François. Bed & Board, 1970. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0065651/.
Waters, John. Female Trouble, 1984. http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0072979/.

Secondary Sources

Also see the 20th-century overview page for more research sources... or browse our Zotero library.

“Introduction to 20th-Century Fashion,” October 18, 2012. http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/i/introduction-to-20th-century-fashion/.
Bolton, Andrew, Richard Hell, John Lydon, and Jon Savage. Punk: Chaos to Couture. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2013. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/861174528.
Boucher, François. 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment. Expanded ed. New York: H.N. Abrams, 1987. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/979316852.
Brown, Susan, ed. Fashion: The Definitive History of Costume and Style. New York: DK Publishing, 2012. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/840417029.
Cole, Daniel James, and Nancy Deihl. The History of Modern Fashion from 1850. London: Laurence King Publishing, 2015. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/900012311.
De La Haye, Amy, ed. The Cutting Edge: 50 Years of British Fashion, 1947-1997. Woodstock, NY: Overlook Press, 1997. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/647538874.
De La Haye, Amy, and Cathie Dingwall. Surfers, Soulies, Skinheads, & Skaters: Subcultural Style from the Forties to the Nineties. Woodstock: Overlook Press, 1996. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1008474764.
De La Haye, Amy, and Edwina Ehrman, eds. London Couture 1923-1975: British Luxury. London: V&A Publishing, 2015. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/970401931.
De Pietri, Stephen, and Melissa Leventon. New Look to Now: French Haute Couture, 1947-1987. San Francisco: Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, 1989. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/476859834.
Dirix, Emmanuelle, and Charlotte Fiell. Fashion in the ’70s. London: Goodman/Fiell, 2014. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/899769777.
Drake, Alicia. The Beautiful Fall: Fashion, Genius, and Glorious Excess in 1970s Paris. New York: Back Bay Books, 2007. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/905086552.
Fraser, Kennedy. The Fashionable Mind: Reflections on Fashion, 1970-1982. #36. Boston: D.R. Godine, 1985. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/476634971.
Hannon, Sharon M. Punks : A Guide to an American Subculture. Guides to Subcultures and Countercultures. Santa Barbara: Greenwood Press, 2010. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/867150591.
Herald, Jacqueline, and Robert Price. Fashions of a Decade. The 1970s. New York: Facts on File, 1992. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/908739234.
Hill, Daniel Delis. History of World Costume and Fashion. Upper Saddle River, NJ: Pearson Prentice Hall, 2011. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/768100950.
Howell, Georgina. Sultans of Style: Thirty Years of Fashion and Passion, 1960-90. London: Ebury, 1990. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/900307080.
Melinkoff, Ellen. What We Wore: An Offbeat Social History of Women’s Clothing, 1950 to 1980. New York: Quill, 1984. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/471804136.
Mendes, Valerie D., and Amy De La Haye. Fashion since 1900. 2nd ed. World of Art. London: Thames & Hudson, 2010. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/751457342.
Milbank, Caroline Rennolds, and Harold Koda. Fashion: A Timeline in Photographs: 1850 to Today. New York: Rizzoli International Publications, Inc, 2015. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/905518225.
Molloy, John T. The Woman’s Dress for Success Book. Chicago: Follet Pub. Co, 1977. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/827652023.
Pih, Darren, ed. Glam: The Performance of Style. Albert Dock, Liverpool: Tate Liverpool, 2013. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1008360109.
Price, Author: Shannon. “Vivienne Westwood (Born 1941) and the Postmodern Legacy of Punk Style | Essay | Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History | The Metropolitan Museum of Art.” The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. Accessed April 9, 2019. https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/vivw/hd_vivw.htm.
Reed, Paula. Fifty Fashion Looks That Changed the 1970s. London: Conran Octopus, 2012. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/880550577.
Reed, Paula. Fifty Fashion Looks That Changed the 1970s. London: Conran Octopus, 2012.
Reed, Paula, and Museum (London Design England). Fifty Fashion Looks That Changed the 1980s. Design Museum. London: Conran Octopus Ltd, a part of Octopus Publishing Group, 2013.
Reed, Paula, and Museum (London Design England). Fifty Fashion Looks That Changed the 1990s. London, UK: Conran Octopus, 2013.
Ross, Geoffrey Aquilina. The Day of the Peacock: Style for Men, 1963-73. London: V&A, 2011. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/973304990.
Savage, Jon. England’s Dreaming: Anarchy, Sex Pistols, Punk Rock, and Beyond. New York: St. Martin’s Griffin, 2002. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/47844566.
Seeling, Charlotte, Neil Morris, Ting Morris, and Karen Waloschek. Fashion, the Century of the Designer, 1900-1999. Cologne: Könemann, 2000. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/778990757.
Tannenbaum, Allan, Peter Occhiogrosso, and Debbie Harry. Grit and Glamour: The Street Style, High Fashion, and Legendary Music of the 1970s. San Rafael, California: Insight Editions, 2016. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/990831348.
Tortora, Phyllis G., and Sara B. Marcketti. Survey of Historic Costume. Sixth edition. New York: Fairchild Books, 2015. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/972500782.
Vergani, Guido, and Giannino Malossi. La renaissance de la mode italienne: Florence, la Sala Bianca, 1952-1973. Milan: Electa, 1993. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/35993938.
Whitaker, M. B. “Biba.” Grove Art Online. Oxford Art Online. Oxford University Press. Accessed July 26, 2017. http://www.oxfordartonline.com/subscriber/article/grove/art/T2080182.
Whitaker, M. B. “Clark, Ossie.” Grove Art Online. Oxford Art Online. Oxford University Press. Accessed July 26, 2017. http://www.oxfordartonline.com/subscriber/article/grove/art/T2080235.
Whitley, Lauren D. Hippie Chic. Boston: MFA Publications, 2013. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/983760876.
Willis, Kirsta. “Burrows, Stephen.” Grove Art Online. Oxford Art Online. Oxford University Press. Accessed July 26, 2017. http://www.oxfordartonline.com/subscriber/article/grove/art/T2081481.
“1970s Fashion.” Pinterest, 1970s. https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1970s-fashion.