OVERVIEW
Womenswear
“In the early years of the new century, fashionable bodices had high necklines or extremely low, rounded necklines, and short wings at the shoulders. Separate closed cartwheel ruffs were sometimes worn, with the standing collar, supported by a small wire frame or supportasse used for more casual wear and becoming more common later. Long sleeves were worn with deep cuffs to match the ruff.”
Fig. 1 - Frans Pourbus the Younger (Flemish, 1569-1622). María de Médici, Reina de Francia, 1607. Oil on canvas; 214 x 124 cm (84.3 x 48.8 in). Bilbao: Bilbao Fine Arts Museum, 84/86. Legated by Lorenzo Hurtado de Saracho, 1984. Source: Guggenheim Museum Bilbao
Fig. 2 - Frans Pourbus the younger (Flemish, 1569-1622). Portrait of Margherita Gonzaga, 1606. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Source: Wikimedia
Fig. 3 - Juan Pantoja de la Cruz (Spanish, 1553-1608). Portrait of Doña Ana de Velasco y Girón, 1603. Paris: Musée Jacquemart-André. Collection of Alicia Koplowitz - Grupo Omega Capital. Source: Peacock Plume - The American University of Paris
Fig. 4 - Artist unknown. Dual portrait of Sir Reginald And Lady Mohun, 1603/4. Oil on panel; 190.5 x 111.4 cm (75 x 44 1/4 in). Private Collection. Source: Pinterest
Menswear
Wikipedia writes of fashion during this time:
“Linen shirts had deep cuffs. Shirt sleeves became fuller throughout the period. To the 1620s, a collar wired to stick out horizontally, called a whisk, was popular. Other styles included an unstarched ruff-like collar and, later, a rectangular falling band lying on the shoulders. Pointed Van Dyke beards, named after the painter Anthony van Dyck, were fashionable, and men often grew a large, wide moustache, as well. Doublets were pointed and fitted close to the body, with tight sleeves, to about 1615. Gradually waistlines rose and sleeves became fuller, and both body and upper sleeves might be slashed to show the shirt beneath. Sleeveless leather jerkins were worn by soldiers and are seen in portraits, but otherwise the jerkin rapidly fell out of fashion for indoor wear.”
Fig. 1 - John de Critz the elder (Flemish, 1551-1642). James VI and I, 1606. Oil on canvas; 200.5 x 129.5 cm (78.9 x 50.9 cm in). London: Dulwich Picture Gallery, DPG548. Gift of Henry Yates Thompson, 1898. Source: Dulwich Picture Gallery
Fig. 2 - Peter Paul Rubens (Flemish, 1577-1640). Portrait of Kaspar Scioppius, ca. 1606. Oil on canvas; 116 x 88 cm (45.7 x 34.6 in). Florence: Pitti Palace. Source: Web Gallery of Art
Fig. 3 - Charles Martin. Portrait of Nicolas de Droullin, 1600. Oil on canvas; 106 × 88 cm (41.7 × 34.6 in). Warsaw: National Museum in Warsaw, M.Ob.2325 (131040). Source: Wikimedia
CHILDREN’S WEAR
Fig. 1 - Robert Peake the Elder (British, 1551-1619). Princess Elizabeth, Later Queen of Bohemia, 1606. Oil on canvas; 154.3 x 79.4 cm (60 3/4 x 31 1/4 in). New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 51.194.1. Gift of Kate T. Davison, in memory of her husband, Henry Pomeroy Davison, 1951. Source: The Met
Fig. 2 - Frans Pourbus the Younger (Flemish, 1569-1622). Portrait of Eleonora of Mantua as a Child, ca. 1605. Oil on canvas; 64 x 49 cm (25.2 x 19.3 in). Florence: Pitti Palace. Source: Wikimedia
Fig. 3 - Bartolomé González y Serrano (Spanish, 1564-1627). Maria Anna, Infanta of Spain, Later Archduchess of Austria, Queen of Hungary and Empress, as a Child, ca. 1608/1610. Oil on canvas; 106.5 x 75 cm (41.9 x 29.5 in). Cliveden: National Trust, 766121. presented to the National Trust with the house and grounds by Waldorf, 2nd Viscount Astor, 1942. Source: Art UK
References:
- “1600–50 in Western European fashion,” Wikipedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=1600%E2%80%9350_in_Western_European_fashion&oldid=822000461 (accessed February 5, 2018).
Historical Context
Wikipedia: 1610-1619
Rulers:
- England
- Elizabeth I (1558–1603)
- James VI and I (1603-1625)
- France
- Henry IV (1589–1610)
- Spain
- Philip III (1598–1621)
Map of Europe, 1595. Source: Wikimedia Commons
Events:
Timeline Entries
Primary/Period Sources
Resources for Fashion History Research
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Primary/Period Sources
Secondary Sources
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