OVERVIEW
Womenswear
“this [is the] time when the concept of fashion, as it is known today, begins. Prior to this point, clothes as a means of self-expression were limited. Guild-controlled systems of production and distribution, and the sumptuary laws made clothing both hard to come by and expensive for the common people. However, by 1750 the consumer revolution brought about cheaper copies of fashionable styles, allowing members of all classes to partake in fashionable dress. Thus, fashion begins to represent an expression of individuality. The constant change in dress mirrored political and social ideals of the time.”
“Between the 1780s and 1800 a very noticeable change took place in the female silhouette. The waistline became higher until it reached the bust. The skirt was reduced in width and hoop petticoats were discarded except at court. In their place crescent-shaped pads were worn at the center back waist beneath the skirt to help fill out the gathers at the back of the dress.”
Fig. 1 - Jacques-Louis David (French, 1748-1825). Portrait of Antoine-Laurent Lavoisier and his wife, 1788. Oil on canvas; 259.7 × 194.6 cm (102.2 × 76.6 in). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1977.10. Source: Wikimedia Commons
Fig. 2 - Artist unknown. "Robe vraiment a l'Anglaise...", 1784. Hand-colored engraving on laid paper; 38.7 x 25.4 cm (15 1/4 x 10 in). Boston: Museum of Fine Arts, 44.1579. Source: Pinterest
Fig. 3 - Ann Frankland Lewis (American, d. 1842). Dress of the Year, 1781. Source: Pinterest
Fig. 4 - Jules David (French, 1808-1892). Moniteur de la Mode, 1855 (plate #447). Hand-colored engraving. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, b17509853. Gift of Woodman Thompson. Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Fig. 5 - Artist unknown (French). Robe à la Polonaise, ca. 1780. Silk. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1976.146a, b. Purchase, Mr. and Mrs. Alan S. Davis Gift, 1976. Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Fig. 6 - Élisabeth Louise Vigée-LeBrun (French, 1755-1842). Archduchess Marie Antoinette, Queen of France, 1778. Oil on canvas; 273 x 193.5 cm. Vienna: Kunst Historisches Museum, Gemäldegalerie, 2772. Das 1778 gemalte Bild wurde im Februar 1779 nach Wien gesendet; 1922 Hofburg. Source: Kunst Historisches Museum Wien
Fig. 7 - William Berczy (Canadian, 1744-1813). Maria Therese, Archduchess of Tuscany, 1782-1787. Oil on canvas; 33.8 x 30.5 cm. Montréal (Québec): McCord Museum, M986.288. Source: McCord Museum
Fig. 8 - Adélaïde Labille-Guiard (French, 1749-1803). Self-Portrait with Two Pupils, Marie Gabrielle Capet (1761–1818) and Marie Marguerite Carreaux de Rosemond (died 1788), 1785. Oil on canvas; 210.8 x 151.1 cm (83 x 591/2 in). New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 53.225.5. Gift of Julia A. Berwind, 1953. Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Menswear
Regarding menswear of the second half of the 18th century, the Victoria & Albert Museum writes:
“As the century progressed, the male silhouette slowly changed. By the middle of the century the wig was usually tied back (known as the tye or bag wig). By the end of the century it was out of fashion altogether except for the most formal occasions. Undergarments and knee breeches did not change very much. Coat skirts gradually became less full and the front was cut in a curved line towards the back. Waistcoats became shorter. The upper leg began to show more and more and by the end of the century breeches fitted better because they were often made of knitted silk. Shoes became low-heeled with pointed toes and were fastened with a detachable buckle and straps or ribbon on the vamp (the upper front part of a boot or shoe).”
Fig. 1 - Pierre-Thomas LeClerc (French, c. 1740– 1799). Redingote Angloise à trois Colets et Bavaroise, 1780. Hand-colored engraving on laid paper; 36.2 x 24.1 cm (14 1/4 x 9 1/2 in). Boston: Museum of Fine Arts, 44.1474. The Elizabeth Day McCormick Collection. Source: Museum of Fine Arts
Fig. 2 - Designer unknown (Probably British). Court coat, 1775–89. Wool, metal, silk, glass. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2009.300.2479. Brooklyn Museum Costume Collection at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of the Brooklyn Museum, 2009; Gift of Mrs. Gilberte Andree, 1960. Source: The Met
Fig. 3 - John Russell (British, 1745-1806). Charles Wesley (1757-1834), ca. 1780. Oil on canvas; 150 x 106 cm. London: England: Royal Academy of Music, 2003.1061. Source: Art UK
Fig. 4 - Prince Demah Barnes (American). Portrait of William Duguid, 1773. Oil on canvas; 52.7 × 40 × 2.9 cm (20 3/4 × 15 3/4 × 1 1/8 in). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 2010.105. Friends of the American Wing Fund, 2010. Source: The Met
CHILDREN’S WEAR
Fig. 1 - Goya (Francisco de Goya y Lucientes) (Spanish, 1746–1828). Manuel Osorio Manrique de Zuñiga (1784–1792), 1787–88. Oil on canvas; 127 x 101.6 cm (50 x 40 in). New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 49.7.41. The Jules Bache Collection, 1949. Source: Metropolitan Museum of Art
References:
- Cullen, Oriole. “Eighteenth-Century European Dress.” In Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Accessed September 16, 2016. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/eudr/hd_eudr.htm
- “Introduction to 18th-Century Fashion.” Victoria & Albert Museum. Accessed September 16, 2016. http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/i/introduction-to-18th-century-fashion/
- “1775–95 in Western Fashion.” Wikipedia. Accessed September 16, 2016. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1775–95_in_Western_fashion
Historical Context
Wikipedia: 1780-1789
Rulers:
- England: King George III (1760-1820)
- France: King Louis XVI (1774-1792)
- Spain:
- King Charles III (1759-1788)
- King Charles IV (1788-1808)
- United States:
- President George Washington (1789-1797)
Map of Europe in 1789. Source: emersonkent.com
Events:
- 1781 – Uranus is discovered
- 1783 – Treaty of Paris
- 1783 – Britain recognized Independence of American colonies
- 1785 – David’s Oath of Horatii
- 1788 – The Times is published
- 1789 – George Washington elected
- 1789-99 – French Revolution
Primary/Period Sources
Resources for Fashion History Research
To discover primary/period sources, explore the categories below.
Have a primary source to suggest? Or a newly digitized periodical/book to announce? Contact us!
Fashion Plate Collections (Digitized)
- Costume Institute Fashion Plate collection
- Casey Fashion Plates (LA Public Library) - search for the year that interests you
- New York Public Library
NYC-Area Special Collections of Fashion Periodicals/Plates
- FIT Special Collections (to make an appointment, click here)
- Costume Institute/Watson Library @ the Met (register here)
- New York Public Library
- Brooklyn Museum Library (email for access)
Fashion Periodicals (Digitized)
Etiquette Books (Digitized)
Secondary Sources
Also see the 18th-century overview page for more research sources… or browse our Zotero library.
