OVERVIEW

Womenswear

Wikipedia writes of 1620s womenswear:

“By the mid-1620s, styles were relaxing. Ruffs were discarded in favor of wired collars which were called rebatos in continental Europe and, later, wide, flat collars.”

The Family of Jan Brueghel the Elder

Fig. 1 - Peter Paul Rubens (Flemish, 1577-1640). The Family of Jan Brueghel the Elder, 1620. Oil on panel; 125.1 x 95.2 cm (49.25 x 37.48 in). London: The Courtauld Gallery. Source: The Courtauld Gallery

Portrait of a Woman and Child

Fig. 2 - Anthony van Dyck (Flemish, 1599-1641). Portrait of a Woman and Child, ca. 1623-25. Oil on canvas. Cleveland: Cleveland Museum of Art. Source: Wikimedia Commons

Portrait of Lady Shirley

Fig. 3 - Anthony van Dyck (Flemish, 1599-1641). Portrait of Lady Shirley, 1622. Oil on canvas. Petworth: Petworth House - HM Treasury and The National Trust. Source: Wikimedia Commons

Portrait of Anne of Austria, Queen of France

Fig. 4 - Peter Paul Rubens (Flemish, 1577-1640). Portrait of Anne of Austria, Queen of France, ca. 1622-25. Oil on canvas; 120 x 96.8 cm (47-1/4 x 38-1/8 in). Pasadena: Norton Simon Museum, F.1965.1.059.P. The Norton Simon Foundation. Source: The Norton Simon Foundation

Pair of gloves

Fig. 4 - Designer unknown (British or Dutch). Pair of gloves, 1620-40. Leather; silk worked with silk and metal thread, spangles; long-and-short, satin, knots, and couching stitches; metal bobbin lace; 31.8 x 14.6 cm (l. 12 1/2 x w. 5 3/4 in). New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 28.220.3, .4. Gift of Mrs. Edward S. Harkness, 1928. Source: The Met

Menswear

Wikipedia writes of 1620s menswear:

“Linen shirts had deep cuffs. Shirt sleeves became fuller throughout the period. To the 1620s, a collar wired to stick out horizontally, called a whisk, was popular. Other styles included an unstarched ruff-like collar and, later, a rectangular falling band lying on the shoulders. Pointed Van Dyke beards, named after the painter Anthony van Dyck, were fashionable, and men often grew a large, wide moustache, as well. Slops or galligaskins, loose hose reaching just below the knee, replaced all other styles of hose by the 1620s, and were now generally called breeches. Breeches might be fastened up the outer leg with buttons or buckles over a full lining.”

Esther before Ahasuerus

Fig. 1 - Artemisia Gentileschi (Italian, 1593-1653). Esther before Ahasuerus, 1628-1635. Oil on canvas; 208.3 × 273.7 cm (82 × 107.8 in). New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 69.281. Gift of Elinor Dorrance Ingersoll, 1969. Source: The Metropolitan Museum of Art

Portrait of Willem van Heythuysen

Fig. 2 - Frans Franchoisz Hals (Dutch, 1582-1666). Portrait of Willem van Heythuysen, 1625-1630. Oil on canvas; 204.5 × 134.5 cm (80.5 × 53 in). Munich: Alte Pinakothek, 14101. Source: Wikimedia

French doublet

Fig. 3 - Designer unknown (French, 1620). French doublet, 1620s. Silk. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1989.196. The Costume Institute Fund, in memory of Polaire Weissman, 1989. Source: The Met

Portions of an armor garniture

Fig. 4 - Maker unknown (Italian, Bresca, 1620-30). Portions of an armor garniture, 1620s. Steel, velvet, leather, gold thread; wt. of helmet 4 lb. 10 oz. (2097.9 g) cm. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 14.25.694a–d, g, i, j. Gift of William H. Riggs, 1913. Source: The Met

CHILDREN’S WEAR

Portrait of a Woman and Child

Fig. 1 - Anthony van Dyck (Flemish, 1599-1641). Portrait of a Woman and Child, ca. 1623-25. Oil on canvas. Cleveland: Cleveland Museum of Art. Source: Wikimedia Commons

References:

Historical Context

Wikipedia: 1620-1629
Rulers:

Carte de l’Europe, 1627. Source: Wikimedia Commons

Events:
  • 1620 – Pilgrims landed in America, establish themselves in Plymouth, Massachusetts. Somber colors and tall, black captain hats are worn; lacings and jewelry are forbidden by Puritans. Colored stockings, especially red ones, become popular. The newer style of latchet- closing shoe shows off the hose underneath, and embroidery at the ankle. Surface ornamentation of fabrics is replaced by bright, solid-color satins decorated with rosettes, wide bows, and looped trims.
  • 1625 – Fashionable married women abandon the wearing of a cap and wear their hair elaborately styled, uncovered, or with a hat.

Primary/Period Sources

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