OVERVIEW
Womenswear
“The wide, high-waisted look of the previous period was gradually superseded by a long vertical line, with horizontal emphasis at the shoulder. Full, loose sleeves ended just below the elbow at mid century and became longer and tighter in keeping with the new trend. The body was tightly corseted, with a low, broad neckline and dropped shoulder. In later decades, the overskirt was drawn back and pinned up to display the petticoat, which was heavily decorated. Spanish court fashion remained out of step with the fashions that arose in France and England, and prosperous Holland also retained its own modest fashions, especially in headdress and hairstyles, as it had retained the ruff in the previous period.”
Fig. 1 - Jan Frans van Douven (Southern Netherlandish, 1656-1727). Anna Maria Luisa de’ Medici dancing with her husband Johann Wilhelm, Elector Palatine, 1695. Oil on canvas. Private Collection. Source: Pinterest
Fig. 2 - Jan Weenix (Dutch, 1640-1719). Elisabeth Charlotte, Duchess d'Orléans, 1697. Private Collection. Source: Pinterest
Fig. 3 - Jacinto Melendez (Spanish). Reina Maria Luisa Gabriela de Saboya, 1690. Private Collection. Source: Pinterest
Fig. 4 - Berey. Marie-Louise Desmatins, 1690s. French engraving. Source: Pinterest
Fig. 5 - Nicolas de Largillierre (French, 1656–1746). Portrait of a Woman, Possibly Madame Claude Lambert de Thorigny (Marie Marguerite Bontemps, 1668–1701), and an Enslaved Servant, 1696. Oil on canvas; 139.7 x 106.7 cm (55 x 42 in). New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 03.37.2. Rogers Fund, 1903. Source: The Met
Menswear
“Fashion in the period 1660–1700 in Western European clothing is characterised by rapid change. Following the end of the Thirty Years’ War and the Restoration of England’s Charles II, military influences in men’s clothing were replaced by a brief period of decorative exuberance which then sobered into the coat, waistcoat and breeches costume that would reign for the next century and a half. In the normal cycle of fashion, the broad, high-waisted silhouette of the previous period was replaced by a long, lean line with a low waist for both men and women. This period also marked the rise of the periwig as an essential item of men’s fashion.”
Fig. 1 - Jan van der Vaart (1647–1721/1727). Henry Davenport III as a Young Man, 1699. Chippenham: National Trust, Lacock Abbey, Fox Talbot Museum and Village. Source: Pinterest
Fig. 2 - Artist unknown (French). Gentleman, 1695. Private Collection. Source: Pinterest
Fig. 3 - Sir Godfrey Kneller (German, 1646–1723). Charles Beauclerk (1670–1726), Duke of St. Albans, ca. 1690–95. Oil on canvas; 126.7 x 102.9 cm (49 7/8 x 40 1/2 in). New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 39.65.8. Bequest of Jacob Ruppert, 1939. Source: The Met
CHILDREN’S WEAR
“Young boys wore skirts with doublets or back-fastening bodices until they were breeched at six to eight. They wore smaller versions of men’s hats over coifs or caps. Small children’s clothing featured leading strings at the shoulder.”
Fig. 1 - Nicolas de Largillière (French, 1656-1746). Prince James Francis Edward Stuart; Princess Louisa Maria Theresa Stuart, 1695. Oil on canvas; 192.8 x 145.7 cm (75 7/8 x 57 3/8 in). London: National Portrait Gallery, 976. Bequeathed by Horatio William Walpole, 4th Earl of Orford, 1895. Source: National Portrait Gallery
References:
- “1650–1700 in Western European fashion” Wikipedia. Accessed Septermber 16, 2016. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1650%E2%80%931700_in_Western_European_fashion
Historical Context
Wikipedia: 1690-1699
Rulers:
- England:
- King William III (1689-1702)
- Queen Mary II (1689-1694)
- France: King Louis XIV (1643-1715)
- Spain: King Charles II (1665-1700)
Map of Europe, 1690. Source: Kunst Museum
Events:
Timeline Entries
Primary/Period Sources
Resources for Fashion History Research
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Primary/Period Sources
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