OVERVIEW

Womenswear

Wikipedia describes 1650- 1700 in Western European fashion:

“The wide, high-waisted look of the previous period was gradually superseded by a long vertical line, with horizontal emphasis at the shoulder. Full, loose sleeves ended just below the elbow at mid century and became longer and tighter in keeping with the new trend. The body was tightly corseted, with a low, broad neckline and dropped shoulder. In later decades, the overskirt was drawn back and pinned up to display the petticoat, which was heavily decorated.

Spanish court fashion remained out of step with the fashions that arose in France and England, and prosperous Holland also retained its own modest fashions, especially in headdress and hairstyles, as it had retained the ruff in the previous period.”

BBC History Magazine describes dressing in the 17th century:

“A major attraction of London was the range of shopping opportunities. By Queen Elizabeth’s reign in the second half of the 16th century, merchants were importing a wide range of different fabrics, dyes and textiles which meant that clothes were becoming more diverse and colourful. Most of this linen and lace came from Italy and the Low Countries, but by the end of the 17th century more exotic commodities such as East Indian chintz and calicos were available too.”

Recueil des modes de la cour de France, 'Femme de qualité en habit D'esté'

Fig. 1 - Nicolas Arnoult (French, 1671-1700). Recueil des modes de la cour de France, 'Femme de qualité en habit D'esté', 1687. Hand-colored engraving on paper; 36.51 x 23.81 cm (14 3/8 x 9 3/8 in). Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art, M.2002.57.69. Purchased with funds provided by The Eli and Edythe L. Broad Foundation, Mr. and Mrs. H. Tony Oppenheimer, Mr. and Mrs. Reed Oppenheimer, Hal Oppenheimer, Alice and Nahum Lainer, Mr. and Mrs. Gerald Oppenheimer, Ricki and Marvin Ring, Mr. and Mrs. David Sydorick, the Costume Council Fund, and member of the Costume Council. Source: LACMA

Recueil des modes de la cour de France, 'Femme de qualité, en d'Eshabillé d'Esté'

Fig. 2 - Nicolas Arnoult (French, 1671-1700). Recueil des modes de la cour de France, 'Femme de qualité, en d'Eshabillé d'Esté', 1687. Hand-colored engraving on paper; 36.51 x 23.81 cm (14 3/8 x 9 3/8 in). Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art, M.2002.57.116. Source: LACMA

Mary II when Princess of Orange

Fig. 3 - Willem Wissing (English, 1656–1687). Mary II when Princess of Orange, 1685. Oil on canvas; 125.7 × 101.9 cm (49.5 × 40.1 in). London: Royal Collection Trust, RCIN 404449. Source: Royal Collection

Portrait of a lady, half-length, in a richly embroidered lace dress with red sleeves, gold earrings, holding a pearled salver with jasmine flowers, in a sculpted cartouche

Fig. 4 - Cornelis Schut III (Flemish, 1629-1685). Portrait of a lady, half-length, in a richly embroidered lace dress with red sleeves, gold earrings, holding a pearled salver with jasmine flowers, in a sculpted cartouche, 1682. Oil on canvas; 126.3 x 98.8 cm (49¾ x 38 7/8 in). Private Collection. Source: Christie's

Evening dress

Fig. 4 - Designer unknown. Evening dress, 1680s. Private Collection. Source: Pinterest

Menswear

[To come…]

Recueil des modes de la cour de France, 'Homme de qualité en habit D'esté'

Fig. 1 - Nicolas Arnoult (French, 1671-1700). Recueil des modes de la cour de France, 'Homme de qualité en habit D'esté', 1687. Hand-colored engraving on paper; 36.51 x 23.81 cm (14 3/8 x 9 3/8 in). Los Angeles: Los Angeles County Museum of Art, M.2002.57.107. Purchased with funds provided by The Eli and Edythe L. Broad Foundation, Mr. and Mrs. H. Tony Oppenheimer, Mr. and Mrs. Reed Oppenheimer, Hal Oppenheimer, Alice and Nahum Lainer, Mr. and Mrs. Gerald Oppenheimer, Ricki and Marvin Ring, Mr. and Mrs. David Sydorick, the Costume Council Fund, and member of the Costume Council. Source: LACMA

Portrait of Francesco Albani

Fig. 2 - Attributed to Sempronio Subissati (Italian, 1680–1758). Portrait of Francesco Albani, 18th century. Red chalk, stumped in the portrait medallion, over traces of black chalk; 41.8 x 25.5 cm (16-7/16 x 10-1/16 in). New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1970.293. Gift of Victor Sordan, 1970. Source: The Met

Cosimo III de' Medici (1642–1723), Grand Duke of Tuscany

Fig. 3 - Giovanni Battista Foggini (Italian, Florence 1652–1725 Florence). Cosimo III de' Medici (1642–1723), Grand Duke of Tuscany, ca. 1680–82. Marble with base of gray marble; 99.4 × 78.7 × 42.9 cm, 177.4 kg (overall (confirmed): 39 1/8 × 31 × 16 7/8 in, 391 lb.). New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1993.332.1. Purchase, The Annenberg Foundation Gift, 1993. Source: The Met

CHILDREN’S WEAR

References:

Historical Context

Wikipedia: 1680-1689
Rulers:

1680 Danckerts Europe. Source: Lahaina Printsellers

Events:
  • 1680 – Amsterdam opera at Leidsegracht opens
  • 1682- The city of Philadelphia, Pennsylvania is founded by William Penn.
  • 1682 – Newton’s theory of gravity.
  • 1683- The English crown colony of New York is subdivided into 12 counties.
  • 1683 – Turks halted at Vienna.
  • 1685 – Louis XIV revokes the Edict of Nantes, forcing large numbers of Huguenots to seek refuge in London. Importing their silk-weaving expertise, these escapees helped found the Spitalfields silk industry.
  • 1686 – The importation of chintz is banned in France (and 40 years later in England) to promote the interests of French and English wool mills.
  • 1688- The Nine Years’ Warbegins in Europe and America.
  • 1688 – John Locke’s Glorious Revolution.
  • Primary/Period Sources

    Resources for Fashion History Research

    To discover primary/period sources, explore the categories below.
    Have a primary source to suggest?  Or a newly digitized periodical/book to announce?  Contact us!

    Primary/Period Sources

    Castiglione, Baldassarre, and Thomas Hoby. The Courtier of Counte Baldessar Castilio: Diuided into Foure Bookes. Verie Necessarie and Profitable for Young Gentlemen and Gentlewomen, Abiding in Court, Palace, or Place. Translated into English by Tho. Hobby. London: Printed by Thomas Creede, 1603. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/606505970.
    Courtin, Antoine de. Nouveau traité de la civilité qui se pratique en France parmi les honnestes gens. Paris: H. Josset, 1681. https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/000179974.
    Peacham, Henry. Peacham’s Compleat Gentleman, 1634. CIHM/ICMH Microfiche Series = CIHM/ICMH Collection de Microfiches ;No. 98995. Oxford ; Toronto: Clarendon Press, 1906. https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/100309353.
    Pibrac, Guy du Faur. La civilité qui se pratique en France parmi les honnêtes gens, pour l’éducation de la jeunesse, avec une méthode facile pour apprendre à bien lire, prononcer les mots & les écrire. Tours: Billault jeune, [16-?]. https://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/001921297.

    Secondary Sources

    Also see the 17th-century overview page for more research sources… or browse our Zotero library.

    Online

    Watt, Melinda. “English Embroidery of the Late Tudor and Stuart Eras.” The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History, n.d. https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/broi/hd_broi.htm.
    Breiding, Dirk H. “Fashion in European Armor.” The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History, n.d. https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/afas/hd_afas.htm.
    Breiding, Dirk H. “Fashion in European Armor, 1600–1700.” The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History, n.d. https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/afas17/hd_afas17.htm.
    Victoria and Albert Museum. “Fashion up to the 17th Century Reading List,” January 13, 2011. http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/f/reading-list-fashion-up-to-the-17th-century/.
    “Recreating 16th and 17th Century Clothing: The Renaissance Tailor,” n.d. http://www.renaissancetailor.com/research_vocabulary.htm.
    Watt, Melinda. “Textile Production in Europe: Silk, 1600–1800.” The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History, n.d. https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/txt_s/hd_txt_s.htm.
    Breiding, Dirk H. “The Decoration of European Armor.” The Met’s Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History, n.d. https://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/deca/hd_deca.htm.

    Books/Articles
    Ashelford, Jane, and Andreas Einsiedel. The Art of Dress: Clothes and Society, 1500-1914. London: National Trust, 1996. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/759883168.
    Boucher, François. 20,000 Years of Fashion: The History of Costume and Personal Adornment. Expanded ed. New York: H.N. Abrams, 1987. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/979316852.
    Brown, Susan, ed. Fashion: The Definitive History of Costume and Style. New York: DK Publishing, 2012. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/840417029.
    Cumming, Valerie. A Visual History of Costume: The Seventeenth Century. 3. London: Batsford, 1984. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/9761398.
    Edwards, Lydia. How to Read a Dress: A Guide to Changing Fashion from the 16th to the 20th Century. London: Bloomsbury Academic, 2017. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/988370049.
    Griffey, Erin. On Display: Henrietta Maria and the Materials of Magnificence at the Stuart Court. London: Yale University Press, 2015. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/949809624.
    Hart, Avril, and Susan North. Historical Fashion in Detail: The 17th and 18th Centuries. London: V&A Publications, 1998. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/170891633.
    Hart, Avril, Susan North, Richard Davis, and Leonie Davis. Seventeenth and Eighteenth-Century Fashion in Detail. London: V&A Publications, 2009. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/846177973.
    Hill, Daniel Delis. History of World Costume and Fashion. Upper Saddle River, NJ: Pearson Prentice Hall, 2011. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/768100950.
    Reynolds, Anna. In Fine Style: The Art of Tudor and Stuart Fashion. London: Royal Collection Trust, 2013. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/824726826.
    Ribeiro, Aileen. Clothing Art: The Visual Culture of Fashion, 1600-1914. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2017. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/150348469.
    Ribeiro, Aileen. Fashion and Fiction: Dress in Art and Literature in Stuart England. New Haven: Yale University Press, 2005. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/630130965.
    Rodini, Elizabeth, Elissa Weaver, and Kristen Ina Grimes. A Well-Fashioned Image: Clothing and Costume in European Art, 1500-1850. Chicago: The David and Alfred Smart Museum of Art, The University of Chicago, 2002. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/694844989.
    Tortora, Phyllis G., and Sara B. Marcketti. Survey of Historic Costume. Sixth edition. New York: Fairchild Books, 2015. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/972500782.
    Vincent, Susan J., and Peter McNeil, eds. A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion: The Age of Enlightenment (1650-1800). London: Bloomsbury Academic, 2017. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/967107605.
    Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Men’s Clothes, 1600-1900. New York: Theatre Arts Books, 1964. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/927414537.
    Waugh, Norah, and Margaret Woodward. The Cut of Women’s Clothes, 1600-1930. New York: Theatre Arts Books, 1968. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/894728161.
    Welch, Evelyn S., ed. Fashioning the Early Modern: Dress, Textiles, and Innovation in Europe, 1500-1800. Pasold Studies in Textile History 18. Oxford: Oxford University Press, 2017. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/1004187054.
    Pinterest
    “1600-1699 Accessories.” Pinterest, 1600s. https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1600-1699-accessories/.
    “1600-1699 Children’s Clothing.” Pinterest, 1600s. https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1600-1699-childrens-clothing/.
    “1600-1699 Fabrics & Textiles.” Pinterest, 1600s. https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1600-1699-fabrics-textiles/.
    “1600-1699 Jewelry.” Pinterest, 1600s. https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1600-1699-jewelry/.
    “1600-1699 Men’s Extant Garments.” Pinterest, 1600s. https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1600-1699-mens-extant-garments/.
    “1600-1699 Undated Portraits of Men.” Pinterest, 1600s. https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1600-1699-undated-portraits-of-men/.
    “1600-1699 Undated Portraits of Women.” Pinterest, 1600s. https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1600-1699-undated-portraits-of-women/.
    “1600-1699 Women’s Extant Garments.” Pinterest, 1600s. https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1600-1699-womens-extant-garments/.
    “1600s Clothing.” Pinterest, 1600s. https://www.pinterest.com/brazen_irish_hu/1600s-clothing/.
    “1680-1689 Portraits of Men.” Pinterest, 1680s. https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1680-1689-portraits-of-men/.
    “1680-1689 Portraits of Women.” Pinterest, 1680s. https://www.pinterest.com/pocketmuseum/1680-1689-portraits-of-women/.
    “History of Fashion: XVII C.” Pinterest, 1600s. https://www.pinterest.com/luthienef/history-of-fashion-xvii-c/.