Textile Trades, Consumer Cultures, and the Material Worlds of the Indian Ocean: An Ocean of Cloth (2018)

By: Pedro Machado, ed.; Sarah Fee, ed.; Gwyn Campbell, ed.

This collection examines cloth as a material and consumer object from early periods to the twenty-first century, across multiple oceanic sites—from Zanzibar, Muscat and Kampala to Ajanta, Srivijaya and Osaka. It moves beyond usual focuses on a single fibre (such as cotton) or place (such as India) to provide a fresh, expansive perspective of the ocean as an “interaction-based arena,” with an internal dynamism and historical coherence forged by material exchange and human relationships. Contributors map shifting social, cultural and commercial circuits to chart the many histories of cloth across the region. They also trace these histories up to the present with discussions of contemporary trade in Dubai, Zanzibar, and Eritrea. Richly illustrated, this collection brings together new and diverse strands in the long story of textiles in the Indian Ocean, past and present.

More Information

Description

Cham, Switzerland : Palgrave Macmillan, 2018
Format: xxv, 426 pages : illustrations (some color) ; 22 cm.
ISBN : 9783319582641  331958264
OCLC : 1024081793  on1024081793

Table of contents

Table of contents

Introduction: The ocean’s many cloth pathways / Machado, Pedro and Sarah Fee 
Part I — Regions of production 
Textiles and silver: the Indian Ocean in a global frame / Prasannan Parthasarathi 
Cloth and commerce: understanding Indian economic history / Lakshmi Subramanian 
Handkerchiefs, scarves, sarees and cotton printed fabrics: Japanese traders and producers and the challenges of global markets / Seiko Sugimoto 
Kanga made in Japan: the flow from the Eastern to the Western end of the Indian Ocean world / Hideaki Suzuki 
A worn insecurity: textiles, industrialization and colonial rule in Eritrea during the long twentieth century / Steven Serels 
Part II — Trade, exchange and networks of distribution 
Distributive networks, sub-regional tastes and ethnicity: the trade in Chinese textiles in Southeast Asia from the tenth to fourteenth centuries CE / Derek Heng 
Textile reorientations: the manufacture and trade of cottons in Java c. 1600-1850 / Kenneth R. Hall 
‘The dearest thing on the East African coast’: the forgotten nineteenth-century trade in ‘Muscat Cloth’ / Sarah Fee 
Converging trades and new technologies: the emergence of Kanga textiles on the Swahili Coast in the late nineteenth century / MacKenzie Moon Ryan 
Part III — Cultures of consumption 
Warp and weft: producing, trading and consuming Indian textiles across the seas (first-thirteenth centuries CE) / Himanshu Prabha Ray 
The decline of the Malagasy textile industry, c. 1800-1895 / Gwyn Campbell 
Contemporary geographies of Zanzibari fashion: Indian Ocean trade journeys in the run-up to Ramadhan festivities / Julia Verne 
The fabric of the Indian Ocean world: reflections on the life cycle of cloth / Jeremy Prestholdt.

About the author

About the author

Pedro Machado is Associate Professor of History at Indiana University, Bloomington, USA.

Sarah Fee is a Curator of Eastern Hemisphere Textiles and Fashion at the Royal Ontario Museum, Canada.

Gwyn Campbell is Professor of History and Director of the Indian Ocean World Centre at McGill University, Canada.

Book Reviews

Book Reviews

Roy, Tirthankar. “Book Review: Textile Trades, Consumer Cultures, and the Material Worlds of the Indian Ocean: An Ocean of Cloth.” International Journal of Maritime History 31, no. 3 (August 2019): 665–67. doi:10.1177/0843871419860719j.

Student reviews