Category: 1520-1529

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1520-1529

1520-1529, 16th century, decade overview

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1525-30 – Jan Jansz Mostaert, Portrait of a Black Man

1520-1529, 1530-1539, 16th century, artwork analysis, BIPOC

Deciphering Jan Jansz Mostaert’s Portrait of an African Man reveals the presence of Black bodies within European court circles and hints at their position within them.

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The exomis was a short wrap garment worn by workin

The exomis was a short wrap garment worn by working men in Ancient Greece. The garment was asymmetrical and pinned at the left shoulder, exposing the right shoulder and part of the chest. The asymmetrical quality of the garment allowed the right arm free to do various forms of physical labor as the exomis was most often worn by lower peasant classes. During the 5th century BC the exomis replaced the previous chiton as the typical tunic garment worn by workers. The exomis was typically made of sheepskin and leather. Despite the garment's associations with male workers it was also worn by young female runners who were participating in coming-of-age rituals. Similarly, depictions of the Greek amazons, an ancient warrior clan of women who lived secluded from patriarchal society, are often shown wearing the exomis garment. Sculptures displaying Amazons wearing the exomis garment could be tied to the garments young female runners wear or how the amazons were considered masculinized due to the fact that they were warriors. Read more at the link in the bio!

#fashionhistory #ancient #digitalhumanities

In honor of MLK day, we wanted to highlight Black

In honor of MLK day, we wanted to highlight Black designer, Ann Lowe, who was at the forefront of fashion during the civil rights movement. Lowe began her career working for Manhattan elites in 1928 where she specialized in gowns for debutantes and brides. In 1950, Lowe started her own business and three years later was commissioned to design the wedding dress for Jacqueline Bouvier's wedding with John F. Kennedy. Though the gown received public recognition, Lowe was not given credit due to her race. However today, many of Lowe’s works are exhibited in museums all over the country. Read more about Lowe at the link in bio!

#fashionhistory #AnnLowe #BIPOC #20thcenturyfashion

Made of silk faille, this Sophie of Saks Fifth Ave

Made of silk faille, this Sophie of Saks Fifth Avenue cocktail dress epitomizes the hourglass silhouette that was so favored in fashion at the time. The dress features three-quarter length sleeves with a deep v-neck and a full skirt that ends at the calves. The top and skirt are both embellished with sequins and rhinestones to give the impression of stars in the night sky. The designer's clothes were sold exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue stores and her designs often followed Dior’s New Look and were considered conservative but still worn by famous celebrities including Marlene Dietrich. Other examples of her cocktail dresses also feature longer sleeves and skirts with a deep v-neck. It’s fitting that the dress was made in the 1950s since the notion of a ‘cocktail party’ became popular within the postwar era, leading to many women considering the style of a cocktail dress to be a staple within their closet. Compared to evening dresses of the time, cocktail pieces were much less ornamented, featured longer sleeves, and were made with less expensive fabrics. Read more at the link in the bio!

#fashionhistory #20thcenturyfashion #digitalhumanities

Lurex is a shiny synthetic fiber made of aluminum-

A mule is a backless shoe that originated in the M

A mule is a backless shoe that originated in the Middle East, but was also very popular in Ancient Egypt, Greece, and Rome. The term mule is derived from the latin ‘mulleus’ which referred to the red color of mules as they were originally made out of red kid, a type of leather. They were later adopted by French women in the 16th century as bedroom slippers, but by the end of the 17th century wealthier women, and men, began wearing high-heeled and lavishly ornamented mules in public. Prominent men like King Louis XIV were known to wear mules, potentially as a status symbol due to them being indoor shoes worn by leisure classes. By the 19th century a more conservative ideal had taken over and reduced the popularity of the mule; revealing one’s naked heels in public was considered scandalous by many so mules were reserved for bedroom shoes once again. It wasn’t until the later half of the 20th century that mules became fashionable as outdoor shoes and their popularity continues in the 21st century as couture designers like Balenciaga have developed new takes on the mule. Read more at the link in bio!

#fashionhistory #arthistory #fashionresearch #digitalhumanities #fashiondictionary

This cream patterned dress trimmed with pleated gr

This cream patterned dress trimmed with pleated green ribbons was considered a fashionable garment in 1862 with its full crinoline skirt and simple, but deliberate trimmings. The zouave-style jacket, which compliments the ensemble, was popular for many dress styles during the time. Read our garment analysis at the link in bio!

#fashionhistory #fashionresearch #19thcenturyfashions #1860s

Popular in 18th-century France, the robe volante w

Popular in 18th-century France, the robe volante was a loose gown worn over hoops with thick pleats hanging down the back of the dress across the shoulders. The robe volante could either be closed at the front or be worn open to reveal a petticoat often of contrasting fabrics. The deep v characteristic of the dress was often complimented by a stomacher or the triangle-shaped bodice piece usually embellished to display status and wealth. Also referred to as the ‘floating sack dress’ the robe volante served as the precursor of the
robe à la française which was much more fitted but kept the style of deep pleats to add volume in the back of the dress. The looseness of the dress represented a shift from the tighter fitting styles that had permeated popular fashion and was a reaction against the over the top and restrictive styles of the court of Louis XIV. Despite the looseness of the style, though, the dress was of course still worn with a corset and accompanying undergarments traditional of the period. Read more at the link in the bio!

#fashionhistory #18thcentury

The Genoese Noblewoman painted by Flemish Baroque

The Genoese Noblewoman painted by Flemish Baroque artist Anthony Van Dyck reflects early 17th century Genoian fashion trends, as well as Van Dyck’s skill in portraiture. Van Dyck saw success in the Netherlands and Italy before becoming the lead court painter in England due to the level of consistency he maintained in his paintings; all of his Genoese portraits contained similar light, architecture and level of formality, making the sitters look as though they were all in one room. The identity of the Genoese noblewoman in the portrait is widely debated, although scholars think she could be Marchesa Paola Adorno Bringole-Sale, who was painted by Van Dyck on three separate occasions and shares a striking resemblance to the unidentified noblewoman. Despite questions on the true identity of the sitter in this portrait, it is suggested that she’s a widow due to her black sash, black lace cuffs, and the fact that her hair is tied up (as opposed to being free-flowing which was reserved for young girls and the unwed). Her clothing shows strong Spanish influence, especially in the black, white, and gold color palette that was prevalent in Spanish dress. Genoa maintained Spanish fashion for longer than other regions in Europe which could be why the Noblewoman is embracing conservative trends, but it also could be due to her status as nobility or her being a widow. Read more at the link in bio!

#fashionhistory #fashionresearch #digitalhumanities #arthistory

Well-known in the 19th century for his skill at po

Well-known in the 19th century for his skill at portraiture, Wintherhalter captured iconic mannered poses and ravishingly elegant dresses, like those in this portrait of the Empress Eugénie and her ladies-in-waiting, who dress in the most fashionable styles of the day. Read our art analysis at the link in bio!

#fashionhistory #arthistory #1850sfashion

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