About the Portrait
About the Fashion
Moving down, one can see he’s wearing pumpkin hose. The strips of fabric spanning them up and down is known as paning; the paning appears to have small slits, or ‘pinks’ in it. Below that, he’s wearing stockings, which, at the time, could have been knit or simply sewn (Eubank & Tortora 183). He is also wearing a prominent codpiece, i.e. “pouches of fabric for the genitals sewn (on) the front” (180). On his head, he wears what Jack Cassin-Scott refers to in the Illustrated Encyclopedia of Costume and Fashion as a court bonnet: “The Court bonnet was made in velvet or cloth and trimmed with jewelled ornaments and a small feather plume” (26). Don Carlos’ costume exhibits the ideal silhouette of his time. In the mid-16th century, the very wide rectangular look fades away and a triangular look becomes more desirable; the painting of Prince Hercule-François (Fig. 4) is a good full-body example of this. Another characteristic of mid-16th century men’s fashion is the peascod belly, in which padding is placed in front of the doublet; seen most clearly in the portrait of Robert Dudley (Fig. 5). This is something that becomes more pronounced as the century progresses, so Don Carlos doesn’t quite exhibit one as exaggerated yet.
- Cassin-Scott, Jack. The Illustrated Encyclopaedia of Costume and Fashion: From 1066 to the Present. London: Cassell Illustrated, 2006. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/65329784.
- “El Príncipe Don Carlos – Colección.” Museo Nacional del Prado. Accessed November 30, 2017. https://www.museodelprado.es/coleccion/obra-de-arte/el-principe-don-carlos/e7fcf4c2-9d07-4165-ad57-022257ce8d65.
- Hill, Daniel Delis. History of World Costume and Fashion. Upper Saddle River, NJ: Pearson Prentice Hall, 2011. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/768100950.
- Pérez Sánchez, Alfonso E. “Sánchez Coello, Alonso.” Grove Art Online. Accessed November 30, 2017. http://libproxy.fitsuny.edu:2150/subscriber/article/grove/art/T075603?q=Alonso+S%C3%A1nchez+Coello&search=quick&pos=1&_start=1.
- Tortora, Phyllis G., and Keith Eubank. Survey of Historic Costume: A History of Western Dress. 3rd ed. New York: Fairchild Publications, 1998. http://www.worldcat.org/oclc/39154857.