About the Look

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his day dress is made entirely of a vibrant green silk that is printed with a floral ditsy pattern in a darker shade of green. The bustled silhouette of this garment is straight in the front with added volume in the back, as was popular at the time (Fig. 2). Trimmings in the same green hue as the fabric adorn the sleeves, waist, skirt, princess lines, and neckline of the dress. These trims are comprised of rows of tassels beneath ruched strips of fabric (Fig. 3), culminating in bows at the elbows and back of the waist. Rows of tassels form a deep V down the front of the bodice, imitating a vest, and buttons with passementerie detailing in the same shade of green are positioned along center-front (Fig. 4).

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he silhouette of this garment, with a large bustle in the back overlaid with voluminous folds of fabric, was highly fashionable during the late 1860s and early 1870s. It was also considered stylish to create the illusion of a vest on a dress rather than overlaying separate garments atop one another. As explained in Godey’s Lady’s Book and Magazine’s “Chitchat on Fashions for November” (1871):

“Vests are the leading feature on all basques and sacques, both for outdoor and house dresses… sometimes they are only simulated by plastrons of silk or velvet, set smoothly on the basque front in vest shape, and trimmed at the outer edge. They give an appearance of breadth that is found to be very becoming.” (486)

Figure 5 is a fashion plate from 1870 that showcases this trend, with lapels built into the bodice of the dress, imitating a separate blazer. This image shares multiple similarities with the main garment, such as its bustled silhouette, imitation-jacket, and tablier, all decorated with large swathes of fringe and pleated fabric.

As noted in Godey’s Lady’s Book and Magazine’s “Chitchats on Fashions for October” (1871), combining multiple trims on one garment was considered to be incredibly stylish. This can be seen in many examples of gowns that include combinations of tassels, fringe, braids, bows, and ruched or pleated strips of fabric. Tassels and fringe were particularly fashionable at this time and were sometimes dyed to match the garment’s main fabric. This can be seen in the green day dress as well as in figure 6, which depicts a completely monochromatic outfit, detailed with trimmings such as fringe, pleats, and bows all in the same shade.

As opposed to these more tonal dresses, highly contrasting trimmings were sometimes used to create a dramatic look. As seen in figure 7, a carte de visite of the highly revered style icon, Empress Eugénie, large, black tassels over white fabric could be used to create a stunning effect. Focal points that trims were often placed on were the neckline, waist, sleeves, and hems of dresses as well as along various points of fullness on the skirt. Figure 8 depicts a light blue silk dress with similar trimming placement and drapery to those seen on the green day dress.