1910-1919

1910-14 – Callot Soeurs, evening dress

1910-1919, 20th century, garment analysis

This Callot Soeurs evening dress, influenced by Orientalism and the Directoire revival, embodies the latest trends of the time in its cylindrical silhouette and soft, unstructured look.

Hymn to Apollo: The Ancient World and the Ballets Russes

1900-1909, 1910-1919, 20th century, blog

The Ballets Russes, a ground-breaking dance company at the beginning of the 20th century, took inspiration from ancient art and sculpture from Greece, Rome, and Egypt to create costumes, poses, and set designs as “Hymn to Apollo: The Ancient World and the Ballets Russes” explores.

Compartment Couture: New York City Department Stores 1850-1930 (Part 2)

1900-1909, 1910-1919, 1920-1929, 19th century, 20th century, thematic essays

Part 1 of this essay covers the emergence of department stores in New York City during the nineteenth century. Part 2 discusses the roles of salesclerks and anonymous fashion designers who worked for department store labels.

Stout Fashion & Early 20th Century American Ready-to-Wear

1910-1919, 1920-1929, 20th century, thematic essays

In the early 20th century, the American ready-to-wear industry for stout women–whom we typically call plus-size today–emerged almost simultaneously as that for slimmer women. Stores like Lane Bryant offered a wide variety of clothing specially designed for stout women, who represented a growing portion of the population and had both the desire and income to spend on fashion goods. This essay explores how the industry evolved in the 1910s and 20s to serve them.