1920-1929

Norell: Flappers Back In Fashion

1920-1929, 1960-1969, 20th century, LGBTQ+, thematic essays

When the spirit of the ’60s brought new relevance to the ’20s silhouette, Norman Norell was at the vanguard of the revival. Indeed, at a time when other designers looked toward the future, Norell looked to the past.

Roaring & Swinging: Shared Fashionable Ideals of Flappers and Mods

1920-1929, 1960-1969, 20th century, thematic essays

Flappers and mods rebelled against the traditional image of femininity held by the generations before them. Although their worlds were very different, their fashion and beauty ideals were remarkably similar.

Compartment Couture: New York City Department Stores 1850-1930 (Part 2)

1900-1909, 1910-1919, 1920-1929, 19th century, 20th century, thematic essays

Part 1 of this essay covers the emergence of department stores in New York City during the nineteenth century. Part 2 discusses the roles of salesclerks and anonymous fashion designers who worked for department store labels.

Stout Fashion & Early 20th Century American Ready-to-Wear

1910-1919, 1920-1929, 20th century, thematic essays

In the early 20th century, the American ready-to-wear industry for stout women–whom we typically call plus-size today–emerged almost simultaneously as that for slimmer women. Stores like Lane Bryant offered a wide variety of clothing specially designed for stout women, who represented a growing portion of the population and had both the desire and income to spend on fashion goods. This essay explores how the industry evolved in the 1910s and 20s to serve them.