OVERVIEW

Womenswear

Wikipedia describes 1640s fashion:

“Fashion in the period 1600–1650 in Western European clothing is characterized by the disappearance of the ruff in favour of broad lace or linen collars. Waistlines rose through the period for both men and women. Other notable fashions included full, slashed sleeves and tall or broad hats with brims.

Spanish fashions remained very conservative. The ruff lingered longest in Spain and the Netherlands, but disappeared first for men and later for women in France and England.

The social tensions leading to the English Civil War were reflected in English fashion, with the elaborate French styles popular at the courts of James I and his son Charles I contrasting with the sober styles in sad or somber colours favoured by Puritans and exported to the early settlements of New England.

Portrait of Friedrich Wilhelm, Elector of Brandenburg, and his Wife Louise Henriette, Countess of Orange-Nassau

Fig. 1 - Gerard van Honthorst (Dutch, 1592-1656). Portrait of Friedrich Wilhelm, Elector of Brandenburg, and his Wife Louise Henriette, Countess of Orange-Nassau, 1647. Oil on canvas; 302 × 194.3 cm (118.9 x 76.5 in). Amsterdam: Rijks Museum, SK-A-873. Source: Pinterest

Portrait of a Lady

Fig. 3 - Carlo Francesco Nuvolone (Italian, 1609-1662). Portrait of a Lady, 1647-49. Oil on canvas; 200 x 120 cm. Bologna: Collezioni Comunali d'Arte di Palazzo d'Accursio. Source: Pinterest

Portrait of a lady

Fig. 4 - Jadwiga Łuszkowska (Polish). Portrait of a lady, 1640. Gdańsk: National Museum. Source: Pinterest

Portrait of a Woman

Fig. 4 - Ferdinand Bol (Dutch, 1616–1680). Portrait of a Woman, 1642. Oil on canvas; 87.3 x 71.1 cm (34 3/8 x 28 in). New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 30.95.269. Theodore M. Davis Collection, Bequest of Theodore M. Davis, 1915. Source: The Met

Menswear

Wikipedia describes 1640s menswear fashion:

“Linen shirts had deep cuffs. Shirt sleeves became fuller throughout the period.

Pointed Van Dyke beards, named after the painter Anthony van Dyck, were fashionable, and men often grew a large, wide moustache, as well. Doublets were pointed and fitted close to the body, with tight sleeves, to about 1615. Gradually waistlines rose and sleeves became fuller, and both body and upper sleeves might be slashed to show the shirt beneath. By 1640 doublets were full and unfitted, and might be open at the front below the high waist to show the shirt.

Short cloaks or capes, usually hip-length, often with sleeves, were worn by fashionable men, usually slung artistically over the left shoulder, even indoors; a fashion of the 1630s matched the cape fabric to the breeches and its lining to the doublet. Long cloaks were worn for inclement weather.”

Ulrik Christian Gyldenløve (1630-1658), son of Christian IV and Vibeke Kruse

Fig. 1 - Abraham Wuchters (Danish, 1608 - 1682). Ulrik Christian Gyldenløve (1630-1658), son of Christian IV and Vibeke Kruse, 1645. Oil on canvas; 208 x 123 cm. Denmark: Statens Museum for Kunst, KMS617. Køb, Kaptajn Schapers arvinger - 1851. Source: Pinterest

Andries Stilte as a Standard Bearer

Fig. 2 - Johannes Cornelisz Verspronck (Dutch, 1600-1662). Andries Stilte as a Standard Bearer, 1640. Oil on canvas; 104 x 78.5 cm (40 15/16 x 30 7/8 in). Washington, D.C.: National Gallery of Art, 1998.13.1. Patrons' Permanent Fund. Source: Pinterest

Portrait of a Man Seated in an Armchair

Fig. 3 - Dutch (Amsterdam) Painter (Dutch). Portrait of a Man Seated in an Armchair, ca. 1640–50. Oil on canvas; 108.3 x 82.6 cm (42 5/8 x 32 1/2 in). New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1975.1.139. Robert Lehman Collection, 1975. Source: The Met

Marcantonio Pasqualini (1614–1691) Crowned by Apollo

Fig. 4 - Andrea Sacchi (Italian, 1599–1661). Marcantonio Pasqualini (1614–1691) Crowned by Apollo, 1641. Oil on canvas; 243.8 x 194.3 cm (96 x 76 1/2 in). New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1981.317. Purchase, Enid A. Haupt Gift and Gwynne Andrews Fund, 1981. Source: The Met

Buff leather coat with silver-gilt braid trimming

Fig. 5 - Maker unknown. Buff leather coat with silver-gilt braid trimming, 1640. Leather, with whalebone stiffening in the collar and silver-gilt braids; Height: 103 cm, Width: 68 cm skirt. London: Victoria and Albert Museum, T.34-1948. Source: V&A

CHILDREN’S WEAR

María Teresa (1638–1683), Infanta of Spain

Fig. 1 - Juan Bautista Martínez del Mazo (Spanish, 1612–1667). María Teresa (1638–1683), Infanta of Spain, ca. 1645. Oil on canvas; 148 x 102.9 cm (58 1/4 x 40 1/2 in). New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 43.101. Rogers Fund, 1943. Source: The Met

References:

Historical Context

Wikipedia: 1640-1649
Rulers:

Map of Europe in 1640. Source: Wikimedia

Events:
  • 1640 – Independence of Portugal
  • 1642 – Rembrandt’s Night Watch
  • 1648 – End of Thirty Years War
  • 1649-59 – The English Commonwealth is proclaimed, with puritanical Oliver Cromwell at its head. Style in England becomes more subdued as a result.

Primary/Period Sources

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Primary/Period Sources

Secondary Sources

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