tupu
A tupu is a long pin used to secure a garment worn across the shoulders. It was typically worn by Andean women in South America.
Tag: 17th century
raffia cloth
Raffia cloth is a type of textile woven from palm leaves and used for garments, bags and mats.
1650 – Diego Velázquez, Juan de Pareja
This dignified portrait by Diego Velázquez depicts his enslaved Black assistant, Juan de Pareja, who was a skilled artist in his own right.
rebato
A large standing lace collar supported by wire, worn by both men and women in the late 16th and early 17th century.
falling band
A flat and broad white collar often with lace on the edges, worn by men and women in the 17th century.
1690-1699
The 1690s silhouette for women was extremely vertical and linear with the long-trained mantua being amplified by the towering fontange lace headdress. The more modest jacket-style mantua bodices are often attributed to the influence of Madame de Maintenon, the secret wife of King Louis XIV. Men’s coats gained fuller skirts and their wigs were now two-peaked and, by the end of the century, powdered gray or white.
1680-1689
In the 1680s, the bustled and trained mantua became the dominant dress for women, often in dark silk brocades. Men continued to wear the justaucorps, which was now slightly shaped at the waist, with a lace cravat and curly full-bottomed wig.
1670-1679
1670s womenswear saw the advent of the looped-up overskirt along with a growing enthusiasm for brocade fabrics. Men of the period uniformly adopted the long collarless coat (known as a justaucorps) and full curly wigs became the dominant hairstyle.
1643 – J. Beckx, Portrait of Diego Bemba
Diego Bemba’s 1643 portrait, along with those of Pedro Sunda and Miguel de Castro, represents an early example of cultural exchange in which African ambassadors donning European costume in order to project a carefully curated image of cultural capital.
1660-1669
In the 1660s, men’s and women’s fashion took on added extravagance. Silk brocades became fashionable for womenswear again and enthusiasm for ribbons in menswear reached its peak. A new style of long collarless coat displaced the doublet by the end of the decade.
mule
A mule is a backless shoe.
1650-1659
Women’s bodices elongated in the 1650s coming to a point in the front, but in general evolved only slowly from the fashions of the previous decade; whereas men’s doublets shrunk radically and their breeches expanded, becoming heavily ornamented with ribbon loops. With England under Cromwell’s control, France takes the lead in fashion.
Recent Essays
15th century – Late Byzantine Silk Damask Dress and Taffeta TunicIn 15th century, Byzantine, garment analysis
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1869 – Red Silk DressIn 1860-1869, 19th century, garment analysis
katazome (stencil printing)In 18th century, 19th century, ancient, Asia, K, P, S, term definition
1905 – André Derain, Lucien GilbertIn 1900-1909, 20th century, artwork analysis