garment analysis | Fashion History Timeline

1872 – House of Worth, Seafoam Green Silk Gown

1870-1879, 19th century, garment analysis

This 1872 Worth dress reflects dominant trends of the moment with its use of fringe, bows and horizontal trim, but is also somewhat more unique in its use of Islamic enamel-inspired ribbons.

1995 – Thierry Mugler, “Birth of Venus” Dress

1990-1999, 20th century, garment analysis, LGBTQ+

Thierry Mugler’s campy “Birth of Venus” dress from Fall/Winter 1995 was made to celebrate the brand’s 20th anniversary and features the body-conscious design and theatrical flair that Mugler was known for.

1955 – Charles James, Butterfly dress

1950-1959, 20th century, garment analysis, LGBTQ+

Charles James’ 1955 “Butterfly” gown features a body-conscious sculpted sheath and large bustle skirt, which is reminiscent of the tightly fitted bustle dresses of the early 1880s.

1958 – Dior (Yves Saint Laurent), L’Eléphant Blanc

1950-1959, 20th century, garment analysis

L’Eléphant Blanc is part of Yves Saint Laurent’s Trapèze collection for the House of Dior, Spring/Summer 1958, which introduced the versatile trapèze silhouette to haute couture. Saint Laurent’s first collection at Dior placed him firmly on the path to becoming one of the most well-known designers of the twentieth century.

1995 – Vivienne Tam, “Mao Collection” Dress

1990-1999, 20th century, Asia, garment analysis

In November 1994, Vivienne Tam presented her spring 1995 collection, which would become one of the most notable of her career. Known as the “Mao collection”, it comprised of t-shirts, dresses, and skirt suits featuring comical images of Mao Zedong (1893-1976), the founding father of the People’s Republic of China (PRC) and former chairman of the Communist Party of China.

1862 – Elizabeth Keckley, Green plaid day dress

1860-1869, 19th century, BIPOC, garment analysis

This striking plaid ensemble designed by Elizabeth Keckley for Mary Todd Lincoln was on the cutting edge of fashion, but also in good taste – embracing the latest French trends while relying on a distinctively American plaid and minimal trimmings in light of the ongoing Civil War.

1986 – Patrick Kelly, Sleeveless black dress with buttons

1980-1989, 20th century, BIPOC, garment analysis, LGBTQ+

Patrick Kelly is remembered for his skin-tight dresses, design affinity for buttons and hearts, and his joyous attitude — all which are manifested in this 1986 dress.

1891-1893 – Emile Pingat, Black Day Dress

1890-1899, 19th century, garment analysis

This day dress by Emile Pingat combines the revival of an 1830s sleeve silhouette with the exquisite couture beading of a Parisian couturier. This amalgamation of historical reference, classic black, a touch of menswear, and savoir-faire showcases luxury and peak style for the consumers that could afford it.

1863 – Elizabeth Keckley, Striped evening dress for Mary Todd Lincoln

1860-1869, 19th century, BIPOC, garment analysis

This 1863 gown, worn by Mary Todd Lincoln, is an exquisite example of fashionable dress from the early 1860s. With its elegant fabric and thoughtful details, it reveals more about the wearer and the creator, Elizabeth Keckley, an accomplished seamstress who is integral to the history of African-American fashion.